London Cosmopolitan

Snowy London 2012

2012-02-05T22:35:00.000Z

It's been bitterly cold here in London; nothing like the extreme subarctic temperatures experienced in Eastern Europe. Last week was filled with beautiful sunny days albeit freezing, but last night we finally had our first snow fall of the season. The snow started falling as we were leaving the Royal Festival Hall where we attended a concert by the London Philharmonic Orchestra. The tube ride home took 15 minutes longer than usual as the London transportation system tends to freak out when snow touches the ground.

By the time we reached Clapham Common station, the streets and common were covered by 1.5 inches of snow. For the most part this winter has been very mild in London, however, I was secretly hoping for one and only one snow day. Glad it happened over the weekend for all of us to enjoy.

We're also pet-sitting for a couple friend of ours who is back on the East Coast for pleasure and business. Their dog, a ginger mixed breed named Haile, is the sweetest dog ever and so well-trained. She's very easy-going, gentle, and a lot of fun. I'm a big dog lover so I am absolutely delighted to watch Miss Haile for the next two weeks. I love her adorable face; somehow she always has this confused puppy look. We've been taking her on long walks around the Clapham area, and even took her to our favourite pub on Northcote Road called the Draft House where we got the chance to catch up with another couple friend who just returned from a month-long trip to Thailand and Vietnam, and of course to introduce them to our houseguest, Haile.

This morning Keenan and I woke up early for some fun in the snow with Haile. I brought my Nikon along to take some picturesque photos although it was a bit foggy this morning. Kids on sleds, little snowmen, and dogs filled the snow-covered common. Haile enjoyed the snow as much as we did, frolicking around with other dogs - a big sloppy Golden Retriever who desperately wanted to play catch and two black Labradors came around to say hello. Enjoy the fun photos below.

Happy Super Bowl Sunday! Still wish it was the San Francisco 49ers in the Super Bowl. They had an amazing comeback season so maybe next year.

The South Coast: Tangalle, Unawatuna, Galle

2012-01-27T01:10:00.000Z

The Sri Lankan coastline is endowed with miles of glorious sandy beaches fringed with palm trees and aquamarine sea. We spent the last five days of our trip being lazy beach bums, soaking up the equatorial sunshine and reading under the cabana. The South Coast reminded us a lot of Kerala, India with its old historic fort, brackish backwaters, coconut-infused cooking, balmy climate, and golden beaches. In fact, Keenan finally got the chance to read the 1997 Booker Prize winner The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy, a novel about fraternal twins in their native Kerala. I ended up reading a Candace Bushnell novel because it was the only book I could find in English in the book exchange library. Let's just say it was an entertaining read.

We divided our time between Tangalle, a secluded little beach town with maybe a handful of thatched beach bungalows, and Unawatuna, Sri Lanka's most popular beach. Tangalle is very sleepy so this beach is perfect for those seeking peace and quiet as the golden sands remain relatively untrodden, but you'll have to share the beach with the occasional stray dogs. While the beaches are tranquil, the ocean is anything but. The undercurrents are extremely strong -- it is not ideal for swimming or other water sports. We stayed at the Patini Bungalows for two nights, which had a superb location right on Medilla Beach with a lovely private deck for afternoon tea or a sun downer. I should also note that Tangalle is an unassuming town with very little tourist infrastructure so eating is very limited to a few guesthouses such as the Ibis and Ganesh Gardens. We liked Tangalle for its peaceful surroundings but it was a bit too quiet for us.

Moving up the coast, we made our way to Unawatuna. Unlike Tangalle, Unawatuna was packed with holiday-makers from frigid Europe. Protected by a sweep of palm trees with crystal clear water lapping the pristine white sand, this crescent-shaped bay with an intimate beach is as picturesque as it gets. It is a lively beach town with a nice laid-back vibe. By day, people are busy jogging, swimming, padding, and sunbathing; and by night, it's quite relaxed with people mellowing out with a glass of chilled beers and eating fresh seafood alfresco on the beach. There were some all-night trance parties along the beach but for the most part Unawatuna had a good mix of relaxation and liveliness. There is no shortage of restaurants in Unawatuna, many serving up the Sri Lankan staples of rice and curry and there's plenty of shops to pick up souvenirs.

I signed up for a half-day Sri Lankan cooking class at Karuna's kitchen -- and it was so much fun! We first took a tour of the vegetable and spice markets in Galle to pick up fresh produce (spice, pumpkin, carrots, green beans) for our meal. The class is limited to 8 people so you can get really hands-on in the prepping and cooking. Karuna, who has this high-pitched infectious laugh, is a great teacher and she makes you take down notes rather than giving you a handout of the recipes. We made five different curries: pumpkin, carrots & green beans, deviled potato, fish curry, and yellow dhaal; and a coconut-based dessert. After spending three hours cooking and inhaling all the aromatic spices, it was time to enjoy the fruits of our labour. Keenan joined us for our late lunch after spending the day shopping for his masks and sunbathing on the beach. Bon Apetite!

We also made a trip to visit the historic fort in Galle. It's an easy-going town teeming with commercial activities from gem shops to Ceylon teashops to textile shops. The old fort was first built by the Portuguese before the Dutch took over, building themselves the Dutch Reform Church, warehouses, and several bastions around the fortified wall. The fort was then handed over to the British in 1796 and several modifications were made to the old fort including building a tower to commemorate Queen Victoria's jubilee. You are welcome to walk along the old rampart and admire the various architectural styles of the Dutch, British, and Portuguese. There also some lovely cafes inside the fort. My favorite was Pedler's Inn Cafe, opt for a seat in the patio and order a coffee or a light lunch.

With heavy hearts, it was a time to say goodbye to Sri Lanka. Istuti for the beautiful memories! If you are interested on current political issues in post-civil war Sri Lanka, please read Keenan's recent blog titled "What Lies Beneath: Truth and Reconciliation in Sri Lanka." Ayubowan!

Safari in Yala National Park

2012-01-25T23:17:00.000Z

Upon reading about Sri Lanka's famous Yala National Park in one of my favorite travel magazines, I knew we had to incorporate a mini safari adventure into our two-week itinerary. From Ella we hopped on a bus heading south to Tissamaharama (Tissa) where we based ourselves at My Village for a few nights.

Palm trees, rice paddies, dagobas, jeeps, and a serene man-made lake complete the landscape in Tissa. It was stifling hot and humid. And the entire town is obsessed with Bob Marley, even drivers have built-in subwoofers in the back of the tuk-tuk blasting "No Woman, No Cry." Welcome to Tissa.

The real reason for coming to Tissa was to use it as a base for our safari drives into Yala National Park. Bright and early at 5am, our driver from Sugathe's Yala Safari picked us in his massive canopied green Tata and we were off for a full-day dawn to dusk safari.

Entering the park was a bit chaotic as there are no limit to the number of vehicles inside the park, but the crowds drop significantly after10:30am when the morning only safaris exit the park, leaving the handful reminding jeeps to roam freely about. The park itself is strikingly beautiful and pristine with thick scrubs, stork-clad lakes, dune-covered coastline, and majestic rock formations. Simply stunning.

Our first order of business was to track down the elusive Sri Lankan leopard, Yala's most famous resident. The driver explained to us that these insanely shy creatures are most active in the early mornings and are generally spotted near massive rocks or on large tree branches. We were lucky to see three leopard-sightings throughout the day: 2 in the morning and another in the late afternoon. The first leopard was lying in the shade behind a rock; the second was sleeping peacefully high up on a large shady tree; and the third was also found on a tree but made a quick move to the ground before the other jeeps arrived. I am amazed how well camouflaged these animals are!

The entire park is teeming with wildlife from herds of buffaloes, wild boar, spotted deers, macaque (red-faced) and langur (black-faced) monkeys, jackals, rabbits, elephants, monitors, crocodiles, and more. In fact we probably saw more animals in one day in Yala than our two days combined in Kruger National Park. If you're into bird-watching, then you'll fall in love with Yala. There are no fewer than 130 different species of bird from the ubiquitous peacock, storks, egrets, kingfishers, herons, ibises to name a few.

Wild Buffaloes:

Spotted Deer

Monitor Lizard

Langur monkey

Wild Boar

Peacock looking for a mate

Pretty bird

During the height of the afternoon heat, we spotted two large groups of female elephants with their young babies on separate ends of the park. In total, we probably saw two dozen elephants inside of Yala including one lonesome male elephant walking on top of a large cliff. These creatures are amazing and huge! As my favorite wild animal, I couldn't help but to take a million pictures of them -- they were just too adorable. We spent some time watching the group of elephants feeding on grass, interacting with each other, and even cross the croc-infested lake. This was definitely one of my favorite safari moments.

It was truly a rewarding day to be fully immersed in nature and taking in the stunning scenery. A full-day safari is exhausting, but is highly recommended if you want to increase your chances of seeing all the wildlife Yala National Park has to offer. It may seem impossibly busy in the morning but I promise it will be more relaxed in the afternoon. Do remember to bring sun block, reading materials, snacks/food, and plenty of water as there are no tourists facilities inside the park.

Crocodile Island:

The next day, we had a leisurely day of sleeping until noon, followed by an afternoon bicycle ride through little rice paddies and around Tissa Lake. There is not much to see in terms of sights in Tissa, but the scenery is pleasant enough. Most tourists take a sunset cruise on Lake Tissa but seeing that locals use the lake to bath and wash clothes, we didn't see the appeal of it. In terms of dining, you're better off eating at your B&B and for that I recommend My Village for their excellent Sri Lankan cooking.

Having missed the puja in Kandy, we wanted to attend the evening puja in the temple town of Kataragama, another holy site to Sir Lankan Buddhists and Hindus, located half an hour from Tissa. The main road leading up to the Sacred Precinct was lined with shops selling colourful garlands and fruit baskets used as offerings to the god Kataragama. Inside the atmospheric main complex, there are several temples dedicated to different deities which were built around the a large Bo tree. Pilgrims descend bearing fruit platters, while others break a coconut which is considered the purest form of offering to a god according to Hinduism. It was interesting to quietly observe the pious rituals of the world's oldest religion.

From Tissa, it was time to move on to the beach for some sun and relaxation.

The Hill Country: Ella

2012-01-22T10:26:00.002Z

The train journey from Hatton to Ella was even more breathtaking than I anticipated. Unlike all our other crowded train rides in Sri Lanka, this journey on the second-class carriage was comfortable and relaxing. Definitely one of my favorite memories of the trip. Coming off a strenuous midnight hike to Adam's Peak, you would think we would fall asleep enroute to our next destination. Trust me, I can fall asleep just about anywhere - cars, planes, trains - doesn't matter, I am a sleeper. We just couldn't peel our eyes off the spectacular scenery as the train made its way up, up, up to the highest town in the hill country, Nuwara Eliya at 6,128 ft, and back down to the little town of Ella.

The change in vegetation was dramatic, switching from subtropical jungle to woodloods and back again to tropical forest. We saw amazing waterfalls in the distance, rolling hills engulfed by fog, and endless miles of manicured Ceylon tea plantations. No matter what, even if you have a driver in Sri Lanka, make it a point to take the train through the central highlands, preferably from Hatton onwards. We met two Japanese girls who took a seven hour train ride from Kandy to Badulla (the end of the line), then all the way back to Colombo in one day just to enjoy the scenery. It's that beautiful.

I previously alluded that we spent New Year's Eve in the little town of Ella. We envisaged having a quiet dinner at our B&B, the Waterfall Homestay, a beautifully appointed property facing Little Ella Waterfall, and heading to bed early due to exhaustion from the previous night's hike. Upon arrival to Ella train station that evening, our poor legs were feeling tight so we rang for a tuk tuk even though the guesthouse was within walking distance, albeit up a steep hill. Due to a road closure, the tuk tuk driver took us on a roundabout way up through the hills, parked his three-wheeler, and told us to start walking. Walk? Uh, okay. It was dark. Down the path, we came across some train tracks and hesitated. Train tracks? I don't recall any train tracks. Were we taken for a ride I thought, deliriously tired at this point? Sri Lanka is one of the easiest places to travel through and definitely a lot cleaner than its neighbour India with the benefit of being hassle-free. We rang the guesthouse again to confirm, and with some hesitation, followed the tuk tuk driver down a steep path where we finally had a visual of the stunning property.

View of Little Ella Waterfall from our B&B

The proprietor, Karen, was back in her native Australia for the holiday season, leaving her manager and the assistant in charge. He invited all the B&B guests to a "New Years BBQ" at his friend's B&B, explaining that his friend was returning the favour since he hosted the Christmas event. What a kind invitation we thought. No, not really. We were probably better off starving and spending the evening by ourselves than wasting our time at this so-called "New Years BBQ" -- it was terrible. However, we were in the company of some eclectic individuals, which made for a very interesting evening: an Indian-based American sculptress who went to Berkeley in the 60s and her visiting-from-Hawaii teenage daughter; an irate and cynical British national and his 11 year old son who he candidly introduces as "a product of an affair with his mother whilst in India;" a solo female traveler from Japan who spoke maybe three words; and a nomadic family with two teenage kids who left behind a life in New York to travel the world a year.

Waterfall Homestay

After the horrible New Year's Eve dinner, the B&B manager and the assistant eagerly shuffled everyone back to the Waterfall Homestay at 10pm so they can attend to their own new year's event in town, leaving the guests behind the keys to the main house and access to the beer refrigerator. Keenan and I managed to stay up until midnight, shared a toast with our new British friend, and escaped to our room before he went on another angry rant about the New Years BBQ and the fact that "someone" let out the air out in the back tires of his rental car. It was a very interesting New Years Eve to say the least. We were happy to put 2011 behind us and welcome a new year.

Our room at Waterfall Homestay

The next morning we were off for to explore Ella. They call Ella the closest thing to an English village, and rightly so, the town is quaint with a handful of restaurants and bars catering to tourists, and some lovely walks around town. Our plan was to conquer Little Adam's Peak, a relatively easy walk from town passing through gentle hills and the Newbourg Tea Factory with a short climb to the top. The views again were amazing peering across the small cleft known as Ella Gap and Ella Rock which frames the entire town. For the rest of the afternoon we enjoyed the warm sun on our pasty skin and an ayuvedic massage to smooth our aching legs.

Ella is also a nice base to explore the tea region, and to learn about the production process of the famous Ceylon tea. The rule of thumb is to pick "two leaves and a bud" for the highest quality. The leaves are then air dried for 16-24 hours before being rolled and crushed to start the fermentation of the tannins. The tea leaves are left to dry for about an hour in a cool, humid-controlled room. Then the tea are placed in a special oven until the leaves are completely dried before being sieved and packaged.

For any tea lover who want to pay homage to the tea magnate, Sir Thomas Lipton, you can head to Haputale, about an hour from Ella, and visit the historic Dambatenne Tea Factory from where you can hike up to Lipton's Seat, and I am sure the scenery is just as brilliant as elsewhere in the hill country.

Ella was our last stop on our week long journey across the hill country. Endowed with amazing vistas and picturesque hill towns, we were sad to say good bye, but looked forward to exploring Sri Lanka's South Coast: Tissa & Katagarama (Yala National Park), Tangalla, Unawatuna, and Galle.

A Pilgrimage to Adam's Peak

2012-01-20T22:12:00.000Z

Religions collide at Adam's Peak, one of three holiest sites in Sri Lanka along with Kandy and Katagarama. At the top of Adam's Peak, or Sri Pada, there is a sacred footprint in which the island's main faiths - Buddhists, Hindus, and Muslims - each believe it is the footprint of Buddha, Shiva, and Adam, respectively. Neither of us are religious but we do have an appreciation for world religions and cultures, and we love a good adventure, plus we're no strangers to midnight walks having hiked to see the sunrise on Mt. Sinai in 2006 and Machu Picchu in 2007. It is most atmospheric to hike Adam's Peak during the pilgrimage season (December to May) as the main path is illuminated and teashops stay open throughout the night.

We made our way to the base of Adam's Peak via a 2.5 hr train ride from Kandy to Hatton, followed by a one-hour harrowing bus ride to Dalhousie, which is an extremely modest village comprising of a handful of makeshift shops selling knick-knacks and semi-cold drinks. There are only two tourist-friendly accommodations, Slightly Chilled and Wathsala Inn, neither are luxurious but served its purpose. We chose the former, Slightly Chilled, which received better reviews as it was recently renovated with wonderful views of Adam's Peak.

For $60USD per night inclusive of breakfast and dinner, it wasn't a bad deal. By day, there isn't a lot to do or see in Dalhousie besides several short walks to some nearby tea plantations but you're better off reserving your energy for the hike up Adam's Peak (2243m). We had an early dinner and hit the pillow just shy of 9pm to get a solid 5 hour of sleep.

At precisely 2am, the hotel gave everyone a wake-up call and at 2:30am we were off for our midnight adventure. Depending on your fitness level, it is advisable to allow at least 3 hours to hike up the peak at a moderate pace. We made it up 4,800 steps in 2 hrs and 15 minutes, arriving to the summit at 5:30am where we rang one of two bells to signal a successful ascent. It wasn't an easy hike; our legs felt like jelly towards the end and I couldn't bear to walk up another step. I admire all the families with small children and elderly grandparents who made the pilgrimage; it wasn't an easy feat.

Joining the crowds of pilgrims and tourists alike, we huddled together in the freezing cold and watched the sunrise above the misty clouds. It was the last sunrise of 2011 and also our first glimpse of this mind-blowing beautiful landscape surrounding this mystical mountain.

On the other side of the temple, the sunrise casts a peculiar shadow: a perfectly triangular shape which appears to be suspended in space. It is a strange phenomena, lasting only 20 minutes and only visible on a clear cloudless day like on New Year's Eve day. The Buddhists believe it is the physical representation of the Triple Gem. Hiking Adam's Peak was an amazing experience and highly recommend it to anyone visiting Sri Lanka during the pilgrimage season.

On the way down back to Dalhousie, we had the opportunity to mingle with a group of inquisitive high school boys who were eager to practice their English, asking us about cricket, President Obama, America, and among other things like what we thought of their president. Back at the Slightly Chilled Guest House, we were thankful for hot breakfast and shower. Then it was time to say goodbye to Adam's Peak and move on to the beautiful hill town of Ella.

We opted to take a tuk-tuk back to Hatton in order to enjoy the beautiful scenery of reservoirs and tea plantations. Our tuk tuk driver, Ravi, stopped at all the scenic locations and he even stopped by his house just outside of Hatton to say hello to his wife and baby son. We would then continue our onward journey to Ella via train, but before we boarded the train, we asked Ravi to take us to his favorite local lunch spot where the three of us enjoyed some hot and fiery rice and curry.

After a short delay, it was on to Ella, my favorite train journey yet.

The Cultural Triangle: Sigiriya & Dambulla

2012-01-18T23:02:00.000Z

From Kandy we hired a car and driver to take us to the southern edge of the so-called "Cultural Triangle" which includes the ancient cities of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, cave temples of Dambulla, and the rock fortress of Sigiriya. For a fee of $50, you can purchase a Cultural Triangle ticket which gives you access to seven major sites valid for 14 days from the date of purchase, but the single entry ticket for Sigiriya alone is $30, which is steep but worth it.

We arrived to the impressive rock fortress of Sigiriya, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, just after 10am to start our morning climb before the afternoon heat sets in. Admittedly, Sigiriya Rock, rising 200 metres above the surrounding forest, looks more intimidating than it really is. In fact, the ascend wasn't too difficult, just insanely busy due to the narrow staircases and crowds of people.

The entrance to Sigiriya complex is through the Water Gardens with elaborate moats for both defense and water-retaining purposes. Passing the Audience Hall, to the right is the Cobra Hood Cave, a natural rock formation that resembles the head of the cobra snake, which then takes you the main path up to the beautifully preserved frescoes collectively known as the Sigiriya Damsels. The 21 surviving damsels painted in bright hues depicts celestial beauties, or "cloud maidens" of King Kasyapa's court.

Further afield, or rather above, is a flight of limestone steps flanked by two gigantic lion's paws carved from rock leading up to the Lion Platform and King Kasyapa's Royal Palace. The path is steep but nothing overly strenuous. The views from above overlooking Sri Lanka's beautiful countryside is simply breathtaking. Far in the distance, you can see a freestanding Buddha statue, lovely lakes, and miles and miles of forest. Gorgeous, gorgeous scenery.

After three hours of exploring Sigiriya, we drove 20 minutes to the cave temples of Dambulla and the Golden Temple (entrance fee $10, not covered by the Cultural Triangle ticket). Built into a huge granite outcrop which rises above 160m, Dambulla consists of five dimly lit grottos containing numerous statues of Buddha sitting in various positions.

All the guidebooks suggest that you visit the caves in reserve order starting from humble Cave #5 and working your way to the spectacular Cave #2 known as Maharaja Vihara (Temple of the Great Kings). This cave is lined wall-to-wall with statues of Buddha of various size, including a large reclining Buddha and the ceilings were covered with intricate murals, and by far, my favorite of the five caves.

The advantages of arranging your own transportation is not only the ability to visit the attractions on your own pace without worrying about bus schedules, but you can also visit the lesser known sights as well as several spice gardens. On the way back to Kandy, we visited the monastery of Aluvihara, which holds the most important set of Theravada Buddhist scriptures. Aluivhara also consists of cave temples but these are less impressive than Dambulla, but still worth a quick visit if times permits. We also stopped to marvel at small Hindu temple just off the main Kandy-Dambulla Highway before returning to Kandy just in time for dinner.

The next day, we were off for a real adventure: a midnight hike to Adam's Peak, Sri Pada or Sacred Footprint. Stay tuned.

Legendary Kandy

2012-01-16T23:54:00.000Z

Taking the train through the lush verdant landscape of Sri Lanka's Hill Country is a classic experience not to miss. Coming off another red-eye flight, as tired and jetlagged as we were, Keenan and I stayed awake to enjoy the scenery of rice paddies, manicured tea gardens, and mist-clad hills. The 2.5 hr train journey from Colombo to Kandy (Rs 330/Rs 220/Rs 150 for 1st/2nd/3rd class) was a spectacular one. An impressive engineering feat as the train ascends slowly, climbing 1400 ft along the ledges and through tunnels of mountainous hills.

Alighting at Kandy train station, the tuk tuk took us to our guesthouse, Villa Sandalwood, up in the hills where we literally crashed out until dinner. We felt somewhat guilty that we skipped visiting the Peradeniya Royal Botanic Gardens in favour of sleep, but we needed the extra rest after a long day of volunteering on Christmas Day followed by the lengthy layover in Bahrain. That evening, we had dinner of rice and curry at the guesthouse at the rooftop terrace. The food was freshly prepared but it lacked some serious heat that we were expecting from traditional Sri Lankan cooking. Up in the hills, we loved the fresh clean air as well as the 360 views of the gorgeous countryside.

The next day, bright and early, we were off to explore Kandy. Once the capital of Sri Lanka for two centuries until 1815, the sweet-sounding name of Kandy derives from Kanda Uda Pasrata which means mountainous district. Our first stop was to visit the famous Temple of the Tooth, which is considered one of the most important Buddhist shrines in Sri Lanka, holding the sacred tooth of Buddha. Suffering from a bomb attack by the Tamil Tigers in the later 90s, the entire complex is gated off and security is tight in which all visitors are subject to bag searches and metal detectors.

Inside the temple, the morning puja just finished and people bearing the lotus flower as offerings were praying and chanting. Around the temple complex, there is also the Sri Dalada Museum dedicated to the Tooth Relic as well as the Raja Tusker Museum, a memorial for Sri Lanka's most famous elephant who often carried the Tooth Relic casket during the famous festival of Esala Perhera. I was told that the evening puja (6pm) at the Temple of the Tooth is quite atmospheric so be sure to time your visit to the Temple in the early evening before dinner. The Temple of the Tooth also holds historic significance as the location where the last Kandyan chief handed over power to the British Empire in 1815.

Enroute to lunch at the Muslim Kandy Hotel, we visited the four devales of Kandy, or temple complexes, each dedicated to a different god - Natha, Pattini, Vishnu, and Kataragama, and the Anglican St. Paul's Church built for homesick and nostalgic Britons. After hot and fiery Sri Lankan rice and curry lunch, we took a leisurely walk around Kandy's landmark lake and to several viewpoints off the south side of the kake. As Sri Lanka's second city, Kandy is surprisingly small. We were able to walk most of the city including the perimeter of the lake in few hours.

Being in the famous Ceylon tea growing region, we stopped for afternoon tea at Senani Restauarant. It was overrun with tourists but had lovely views of the lake and city. Overall, Kandy was the perfect introduction to Sri Lanka's fascinating culture, history, and religion, and the ideal gateway to explore the beautiful Hill Country.

Next up: day trip to Sigiriya and Dambulla.

Pit Stop in Bahrain

2012-01-13T22:52:00.000Z

Due to a flight cancellation from Bahrain to Colombo (it's a long story -- Gulf Air, I'm waiting for our compensation!), Keenan and I had an unexpected 12 hour layover in Bahrain. So what to do for the day in the capital city of Manama? Not much. But I guess the silver lining behind this travel debacle was adding another country to our tally at the expensive of cutting out Colombo entirely from our itinerary.

After arguing with the Gulf Air desk at Bahrain airport, they finally agreed to put us up in a hotel for the day so we can sleep and shower. Tired, agitated, and grumpy, we piled into the shuttle van to the Al Safir Hotel in the Juffair neighbourhood. As we navigated the streets of Manama, passing Bahrain's Central Business District, two Indian-American kids from Dallas yelled out exactly what I was thinking: "This looks like America!" Just imagine as if a cookie-cutter American suburb was dropped in the the middle of an Arabian desert; that's Bahrain. Massive multi-lane highways, super-sized SUVs, souless buildings, big billboards, and every possible American chain restaurant. The same kids went on and asked, "Where's all the grass here?" Desert, highways, and construction pretty much sums up the landscape in Manama. It's not the most interesting city in the Middle East to say the least.

After a much-needed nap, we attempted to do a bit of exploring by first visiting the nearby Al-Fatih Mosque. We've seen far more impressive mosques in Cairo, Damascus, and Istanbul in our lifetime so the Al-Fatih, Bahrain's largest mosque, didn't impress us, but I appreciated the guide's efforts in explaining the architectural inspiration behind the mosque. Adjacent to the mosque is a massive parking lot, very telling of how car dependent Bahrain is. I'm used to visiting mosques in the wonderfully chaotic back alleys of the Islamic quarter.

Since it was "cool" day in Bahrain at 22C/72F, the guide at Al-Fatih Mosque suggested we take a walk along the Corniche to the National Museum of Bahrain. The Corniche? Sure, why not. It'll be nice, thinking it would be similar to the Corniche in Beirut. Not so. The problem is that the Corniche is literally parallel to the Al-Fatih Highway with loads of cars whizzing by, and there is little to see along the way, which doesn't make for a very pleasant walk. We didn't make it very far before we aborted our "corniche" walk. Bahrain is not very pedestrian-friendly, and with no taxis in sight and no dinars in hand, we had no choice but to walk back to our hotel, which was only 1 mile away, but that walk felt like eternity.

As for eating, we had no option other than to dine at the TGIF located across the street from the Al-Safir Hotel. Inside the restaurant was decked out in American paraphernalia - NFL, American rockbands, NBA, American movie stars, and a room full of people with American accents. All very strange. It turns out that there is a sizable American population in Manama due to the US Navy base, hence, the American accents, American-style SUVs, and American-size portions.

Bahrain's biggest draw is of course the Grand Prix scheduled for April 2012. Other things to do and see in Bahrain as I was told by the concierge. Had we not taken our 3 hour nap earlier, we probably would have just enough time to cover the sights below with a tour company.

Qulat Al Bahrain
Bab Al Bahrain
Tree of Life
Bahrain National Museum
Arad Fort
Bahrain Souq

Ayubowan Sri Lanka

2012-01-11T22:48:00.011Z

Happy New Year Everyone! Wishing you all the very best for 2012!

Keenan and I have the good fortune of ringing in the New Year in different cities over the past decade: Tokyo ('03); San Francisco ('04); Los Angeles ('05); Cairo ('06); Hong Kong ('07); Mumbai ('08); London ('09) St. Petersburg ('10); Jerusalem ('11) and this year was no exception. We had a low-key, and by far the quirkest New Year's Eve ever, in the little town of Ella in Sri Lanka (more on that later).

Sri Lanka was amazing! With the civil war well in the past, Sri Lanka's tourism is booming, and for good reasons. Sri Lanka is a beautiful country. For a nation roughly the size of West Virgina, the island packs incredible variety of attractions from ancient temples, picturesque tea plantations, lovely hill towns, stunning natural beauty, gorgeous national parks, historic ports, and idyllic beaches. We have many stories and photos to share, but for now here's a sneak peek of our two-week adventure in Sri Lanka.

Legendary Kandy & The Temple of the Tooth:

Rock Fortress: Sigiriya:

Buddha, Buddha, Buddha Everywhere in Dambulla:

Pilgrimage to the Sacred Mountain of Adam's Peak:

Last sunrise of 2011 from Adam's Peak:

Tea Plantations in the Hill Country:

Picturesque Ella:

Safari at Yala National Park:

Palm-fringed beaches of the South Coast:

Galle Fort:

The Ubiquitous Coconut:

Ayubowan Sri Lanka and istuti for the wonderful memories! More to follow soon...

For those of you interested in learning about post-Civil War Sri Lanka, please read Keenan's latest article on Sri Lanka on Travel is Subversive.

Merry, Merry!

2011-12-25T17:08:00.000Z

Happy Christmas Everyone!

We did something a bit different this year to mark the holiday season by giving back to the community. Keenan and I spent the day volunteering with The Kids Company, a charity that works with disadvantaged inner city children in London. Each year The Kids Company organises a major Christmas party for 3,500+ children and their families complete with a Christmas lunch, presents, and other fun activities.

The Oval Cricket Ground generously offered their corporate suites for this year's Kids Company's Christmas Party. Over the course of the week, armies of volunteers transformed The Oval into a Winter Wonderland complete with an Arctic Grotto, Disco Room, Yoga Room, Chill Out Room, Activities Room, and an Arts & Crafts Room. They even organise taxis for all the kids and families as well as all the volunteers. It was a long day, but a rewarding one. I served food in the main dining room, while Keenan played with kids in the Game Room. We're now off to Sri Lanka with a detour to Bahrain so see you in the New Year.

Merry, Merry! Happy holidays! I hope you and yours have a very merry festive season and all the best for the New Year.

Happy 30th!

2011-12-23T10:01:00.001Z

We celebrated a milestone birthday last night: Keenan's 30th and the start of a new decade. We kicked off the celebration last Saturday with a joint birthday party with another friend who also turned 30 at a bar/lounge in our neighbourhood in Clapham Old Town. But first, a small group gathered at our flat for Konditor & Cook cake, prosecco, and some old-fashion Christmas crackers to get into the festive spirit. It was lovely to see everyone and many thanks for celebrating this milestone occasion with us.

On Keenan's actual birthday, his office had a champagne toast and cake in his honor and I treated him to dinner at Trishna's, a newcomer to the haute Indian cuisine scene in London which recently received its Bib Gourmand award. The Head Chef, Karam Sethi, was trained not only at the wildly successful sister restaurant Trishna in Mumbai, but also Zuma in London and Bukhara in New Delhi. The restaurant, tucked away on Blandford Street in the fashionable Marylebone Village, focuses on regional cuisine of the southwestern coast of India which heavy emphasis on seafood. The restaurant is minimalist in design, yet has a relaxing atmosphere with vintage Indian posters adoring the exposed brick wall.

We opted for the 5 course tasting menu (£25) for a five-course tasting menu, with a bottle of Luigi Bosca Finca La Linda Viognier from Argentina. While I love my red wines, I generally prefer a white wine with spicy Asian food while Keenan always goes for a cool refreshing beer, this time the Spanish Alhambra Pale Ale. After some pappadum with an excellent shrimp and tomato chutney and a classic mango chutney, we started with Crispy Squid, lightly battered and fried with a hint of lime and the perfect amount of heat from a splash of red and green chilis. The next course was a Turkey Tikka, an innovative take on the classic Chicken Tikka, served over a bed of green lentils garnished with fresh red onions and coriander. It wasn't the typical Tikka you would find at Indian restaurants, the turkey was tender, juicy, and nicely seasoned with the perfect amount of charness.

Then we enjoyed the Tiger Prawn served with a mustard sauce, which was lovely but it was just a bit too mustard, overpowering the delicate flavour of the prawn. For the mains, we had a choice between the Lamb Curry or the Goan Fish Curry so we chose one of each so we can sample all the dishes on offer on the Tasting Menu. The mains came with naan, saag, daal, and rice, and to our surprise, the portions were quite large. The Lamb Curry cooked South Indian style with coconut instead of cream was delicious and had subtle flavours of curry leaf and cinnamon. The Fish Curry was equally well presented, complex, and tasty. The sides were also very well executed, a modern twist of all the Indian classics using seasonal ingredients and fresh ground spices.

For dessert, it was a choice between Apple Crumble or Carrot Halwa; the former, a classic British pudding, and the ladder, a traditional Indian. I don't usually prefer Indian sweets but Keenan loved both the puddings especially the Lychee Sorbet that accompanied the Carrot Halwa. This is excellent value for exceptional Indian cooking. It can easily rival Benares or Mint Leaf. We left the restaurant satisfied and plan on taking our parents here when they visit.

Happy Birthday Keenan! I hope the next decade is filled with joy, laughter, love, health, happiness, and adventure. Love, L.

Leonardo da Vinci Exhibition at The National Gallery

2011-12-18T16:04:00.011Z

The Leonardo Da Vinci: Painter at the Milan Court is probably the most highly anticipated art exhibition of the year. Rightly so. This is an unprecedented once-in-a-lifetime-opportunity to see nine of fifteen of Da Vinci's paintings under one roof at the beautiful Sainsbury Wing of National Gallery.

Having missed the boat on booking advanced tickets, Keenan and I had originally planned on queuing for the exhibition in mid-January 2012 after our trip to Sri Lanka. However, a month ago we got an email from my jet-setting friend telling us that she will be in town in December. Some 3,000 miles away in San Francisco, she had also heard about the exhibition and was determined to see Da Vinci's work.

So on Friday morning, I dragged myself out of my bed, bundled up in my heavy Northface down jacket, and slept walk over to Trafalgar Square, arriving precisely at 7:10 am to join the queue as #20 in line. Surely, if I survived Moscow and St. Petersburg in the dead of winter, I can withstand several hours of freezing temperatures. My friend met me in the queue at 9:30, we bought our tickets for the 5pm slot, and then went to the 3rd floor restaurant at the National Portrait Gallery to defrost over a cup of tea. We enjoyed the view of Trafalgar Square while catching up on life and the latest happenings in San Francisco. My friend and I did some window shopping, had a light lunch at Vinoteca in Marylebone, followed by afternoon tea and pastries back at her hotel, the JW Marriott Governsor House, before heading back to the National Gallery where Keenan joined us after his company's Christmas party.

Da Vinci was a true polymath; he was not only a painter, but also inventor, scientist, botanist, and geologist. In other words, a pure genius. This exhibition focuses on Da Vinci's artistic work during his eighteen year tenure as the court painter during the reign of Duke Lodovico Sforza in the late 1480s. The six room exhibition is clustered by themes on the first floor and continues in the Sunley Room on level 2. For the first time, art lovers can view Da Vinci's two versions of The Virgin of the Rocks side by side on opposite ends of the room. It's interesting to see the subtle differences between the two versions. The first, on loan from the Louvre, has strong emphasis on naturalism, while the second version was painted with more hues of blue to capture the fall of the light.

Other artwork on display include: The Madonna of the Yarnwinder, Portrait of a Musician, and Saint Jerome. The highlight was of course was The Last Supper displayed in the Sunley Room. This room contains Da Vinci's original compositional sketches of his idea for The Last Supper. He wished to depict the the distinct characteristic and expressions of the 12 Apostles.

I highly recommend this exhibition. While tickets are 16 GBP, it is well worth every pence and the long queues for a chance to see Da Vinci's original masterpieces. Advanced tickets are sold out, but here's all the information you need if you plan on queuing for tickets. The show runs until 5th February 2012.

500 day of tickets will be on sale on a first-come, first-serve basis. On Fridays and Saturdays (700 tickets), the exhibition is open until 10pm to cope with high demand; and until 7pm on Sundays (600 ticket). Each person can purchase up to 6 tickets.
Visitors are limited to 180 per half hour to manage crowd control. Even with this, the exhibition was quite crowded as art lovers marveled at the paintings and sketches, many of which are owned by Her Majesty The Queen.
It is highly recommended that you queue in front of the Sainsbury Wing before 8:15am or earlier to secure tickets. The National Gallery staff will let you know if there are no chances to secure day of tickets. If you arrive early enough, you can pick your time slot (in half time-slots).
Admission tickets are timed but once you enter the museum, you can stay as long as you want. The exhibition continues upstairs in the Sunley Room, which is where the Last Supper is displayed.
Dress warm, gloves, umbrellas, heat pads, bring magazines, books, Ipods/Ipads and you can expect to wait up to three hours.

The Museum of London

2011-12-13T19:28:00.021Z

London is an incredible city with history spanning several millenniums. A couple of weeks ago, I took a stroll through The City during lunch hours and decided to pop into the Museum of London, one of the very few museums I have yet to visit. This museum primarily focuses on the social history of London and is housed in one of the modern Barbican buildings right in the heart of The City, or the Square Mile.

Known then as Londinium, the city was founded by the Romans in AD43 following the invasion led by Emperor Claudius. Like Hadrian's Wall in northern England, the 3 mile-long London Wall was built as a defensive fortress surrounding the city. Today, only a small fragment of the historic Roman wall remains, however, it is still very much part of London's history, unofficially defining the boundaries of The City. You can view the London Wall from the street level on the modern road also named London Wall or from the interior of Museum of London.

With nine permanent galleries narrating the chronological social history of London dating back from the prehistoric times to the modern, you can easily spend a better part of the afternoon at the Museum of London. Short on time, I sped through the 'London before London' prehistoric gallery, but stopped to see the 5,100 years old skeleton of the Shepperton woman, one of the oldest people found in London, then moved on to 'Roman London,' where Londoninum served as a major commerical centre for the Roman Empire until the 5th century.

I walked through the 'Medieval London' to see Chaucer's London, and then to the 'War, Plague, and Fire,' a tumultuous time in England ravaged by wars and disasters, namely the Great Plague of 1665 and the Great Fire of 1666, which completely destroyed the City of London. The 'Expanded City: 1666 to 1850' documents the expansion of the British Empire to territories as far as India, while 'People's City' explores London as the divided city and the wealth disparity between the rich and poor, best described in many of Charles Dicken's novels, and finally the 'World History' gallery looks at modern London as a 'global city.'

Speaking of Dickens, as it will be 200th anniversary of his birth next year, the Museum of London commissioned a special exhibition to celebrate the life and works of Charles Dickens and his deep connection to the great city of London. Unfortunately, the exhibition wasn't open when I visited a few weeks ago, but it now open to the public until June 2012. There is also the Charles Dickens Museum on Doughty Street in Holborn, one of his former residence and home to several of his original manuscripts. Of course, you can also also retrace the steps of Dickens's London and have a pint at the atmospheric Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub once frequented by Dickens.

To fully appreciate the grand scale and city planning of London, it is worth visiting The London Eye. It offers a unique perspective of London: a panoramic view. My friend gave us complimentary tickets awhile back when he was visiting London on his way to India. On a beautiful crisp morning, Keenan and I joined the queue with a gazillion tourist to ride The London Eye. 443 feet tall with the 32 capsules representing London's 32 boroughs, the wheel moves quite slow, at .6 mph, so the complete revolution is approximately 30 minutes, just enough time to snap photos of the iconic Big Ben and Parliament, Somerset House, and the new Shard building in the Southbank, without getting bored.

With my new point-and-shoot Canon SX220 in tow (love Black Friday sales), I snapped a few photos of the Occupy Movement at St. Paul's Cathedral below.

Westfield Stratford City, East London

2011-12-04T08:24:00.150Z

It's not very often we head east past Shoreditch thanks to the fact that the Jubliee Line, one of two lines that run to Stratford, has been down every weekend for the past two and half years. But a few weekends ago, Keenan and I ventured out to East London to check out the new Westfield Stratford City which opened in early September. As Europe's largest urban shopping centre, this labyrinth mall and entertainment complex comprising of 1.9 million square feet surely did not disappoint. It featured some 300+ stores anchored by M&S, Waitrose, and John Lewis, 70 restaurants, a massive 14 screen Vue cinema, several hotels, and even a casino and bowling alley.

It is also the gateway to the London 2012 Olympics which is just about eight months away. As we alighted at Stratford station on a gorgeous autumn afternoon and walked across the pedestrian bridge for views of the famous Olympic Stadium, Keenan made a comment that the masterplanning was indeed "smart." Why? Well, nearly all visitors and athletes from around the world who arrive via one of the major public transport hubs in Stratford will need to walk through Westfield Shopping Centre to get to any major Olympic venues. And surely in between events, visitors will no doubt pass time shopping, eating, or watching the Olympic events live on large screens at Westfield. This means more foot traffic and presumably more spending from visitors. Smart planning on the part of this Australian-based retail developer.

A stone's throw away are three major Olympic sites: the Aquatic Centre, the Olympic Stadium, and the Athletes' Village which are literally separated a major walkway. We couldn't walk around the venues as we originally thought, but as we weren't so lucky to score tickets to next year's Olympic games, it was interesting to see the Olympic stadiums in its complete form rather than in architectural renderings.

As Christmas is around the corner, Westfield Stratford City was decked out for the holiday season with beautiful white lights and oversized bauble (Christmas balls in American English). It even had a ice skating rink on the promenade leading to the Aquatic Centre playing nothing less than my favorite "Last Christmas." The gleaming interior of the mall was equally impressive as tree-lined landscaped exterior. Westfield Stratford City is indeed a massive behemoth, but unlike its sister mall, Westfield Shepherds Bush in West London, it does not have a "Designers Pavilion" of luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton or Prada, but definitely enough variety of shops to keep the fashionistas happy.

Shoppers can peruse over three levels of pure retail bliss. The mall has every major High Street brand from Zara to H&M and LK Bennett and a massive selection of restaurants. I was delighted to see some of my favorites such as Franca Manca, (original output in Brixton), Bumpkin, Busaba Eathai, Jamie's Italian, and even Fenton's Ice Cream, which I believe is the same establishment as the legendary Fentons in Piedmont, CA, or at least I hope.

While it may be a trek from Southwest London, the glimpse of the Olympic Park alone is worth the journey to Zone 3 "where East meets Westfield." If you take the Dockland Light Rail (DLR) via Pudding Mill Lane, you'll be able to see an unobstructed view of the Olympic Stadium. Let the games begin.

Good Eats at Brixton Village

2011-11-29T09:17:00.001Z

Brixton Village has been all the buzz amongst the foodie circles lately. Both Time Out London and The Guardian have both wrote excellent reviews about this little foodie paradise in Southwest London. Keenan and I have been to Brixton a number of times -- concerts at the Brixton Academy, Saturday lunches at Franco Manca, which we think is the best pizza outside of Naples, and the occasional run to our closest Argos (think: Montgomery Wards catalogue order) for all our miscellaneous household items.

As I mentioned before, and I'll say it again, while Brixton is a colourful neighbourhood, it can be down right seedy especially at night. I seriously thought I was going to have my first-ever mugging experience as I walked up Brixton Hill to meet friends for dinner on a cold February evening. However in recent years, Brixton have gone through a series of gentrification starting with the renovation of Ritzy Cinema on the corner of Coldharbour Lane and recently transforming the once-neglected Granville Arcade, now called Brixton Village, into a bustling foodie market.

Setting the trend was Franco Manca who opened his first outpost in a tiny space in Brixton Market Row in 2008, and now has branches in Chiswick and Westfield Stratford. Several restaurants have popped up in Market Row since including Casa Morito, a Mexican taco bar that sells tomatillos, very exciting as I can never find them in London except at Borough Market. Like Market Row, Brixton Village is a covered arcade with a mix of butchers, fishmongers, ethnic grocers, vintage shops, and a tiny restaurants with no more than 15-20 seats each. Walking through Brixton Village is a feast for the eyes and nose. We were overwhelmed with the variety of cuisines to choose from with no less than twenty restaurants and cafes packed in a square block.

There's Mama Lan, a Beijing dumpling and noodle specialty shop; Elephant, which serves up samosa and curries thali-style for knock-out low price of £6; Okan, a Japanese okonomiyaki shop; French & Grace, whips up some lovely crepes; Bellantoni's for home-made pastas; two Colombian restaurants, El Rancho de Lalo and Restaurante Santafereno, both who source their meats from Carniceria Los Andes butchers; much-loved Clapham brunch place Breads Etcetera with their tabletop signature Dualit toasters and blankets; and Brixton Village Grill for Portuguese-style piri-piri chicken.

After an unsuccessful attempt (60 minute wait time!) to grab a table at Honest Burger, supposedly the best burger joint in town thanks to their 35-day aged patties served on sourdough buns, Keenan and I snagged an outdoor table at the family-run KaoSarn for delicious Thai food. We devour our dishes - a Thai noodle soup for me and grilled beef over rice for Keenan, both had the perfect blend of chili sauce, tamarind, and basil. Next door to KaoSarn was Take Two Grill, a jerk chicken joint grilling up meats in a kettle drum. It smelled so good that we were tempted to order takeaway for dinner but alas we already had dinner plans.

Caffeine-addicts should not miss Coffee Federation for the flat whites, while those looking to satisfy the sweet tooth have plenty to choose from - Lab G for gelato, WAG Free for gluten-free pastries, or Cornercopia for Brockwell Park damson jam. It's also a great place to people watch if you can find a seat, and to buy some kitchen staples like herbs, onion, and garlic.

I hope this post is making you hungry. If so head over to Brixton Village to support the local Brixton economy. The market is open late on Thursdays and Fridays with live entertainment and repertoire of international cuisine to satisfy any appetite, all for probably under a tenner. I'm sure I'll be back to Brixton Village in no time given it is only a five minute bus ride from Clapham Common. And next time, I will get my hands on that The Federation from Honest Burger.

A Very Happy Thanksgiving!

2011-11-25T19:48:00.000Z

In my early university days I dabbled in the kitchen as my "productive" form of procrastination from studying for my economics exams, while my college roommate would find any excuse not to write her English essays, that usually meant cleaning the flat. So between the two us, we not only had the cleanest apartment on the block, but also a refrigerator full of botched recipes of everything imaginable. I was terrible in the kitchen back then. In fact, I nearly set our university apartment on fire.

However, over the years my culinary skills vastly improved, thanks to my perpetual need to procrastinate. So much to my delight that I even splurged on a 10-piece All-Clad set with my first paycheck and convinced my family to let me cook my first Thanksgiving dinner in 2004. A bit apprehensive initially, but they were happy that I found a new hobby, although I am fairly certain my older sister had a back-up plan to make a last minute run to Boston Market (equivalent to a Nando's) in case of a disaster. Thanksgiving dinner was a major success! Since then I've cooked every Thanksgiving dinner for my family until Keenan and I moved abroad.

It's no exaggeration that I look forward to cooking the Thanksgiving meal more than actually eating turkey, mash, and all the trimmings. This year was no exception. After weeding through epicurious.com for hours, I picked a menu of Italian-inspired recipes for this year's Thanksgiving dinner.

Pancetta-Sage Thanksgiving Turkey: As last year's turkey was a bit on the dry side, I tried a new technique this year by smothering the turkey with a butter mixture of pancetta, sage, rosemary, and shallots (don't ask how much butter!), tucking the butter beneath the skin and generously seasoning the cavity and body of the turkey with salt and pepper. To add another layer of fat, I covered the turkey breast with bacon, followed by a generous olive oil rub. I then placed foil on top of the breast for the first 40 minutes to prevent the breast from cooking too quickly and drying out the breast. I diligently basked the turkey every 15 to 20 minutes and brushed the turkey with melted butter with 30 - 40 minutes. The result? By far, the best turkey I have roasted to date. The turkey breast was moist and packed with flavours of sage and the perfect amount of saltiness from the bacon.

Italian-sausage Bread Stuffing: I normally make a vegetarian stuffing but this year I changed it up a bit since we didn't have any vegetarian guests at dinner. I always make stuffing from scratch, toasting my own baguette instead of using store-bought packages. While the French baguette was toasting in the oven, I browned the pork sausage and placed in a large mixing bowl. Then using the same pan, I sauteed the onion, celery, and garlic seasoning it with salt and pepper. Then it was time to mix -- some heavy cream, eggs, and chicken broth, more salt and pepper, and into the oven it goes for 45 minutes or so. If you like the top to be slightly toasted, remove the foil after 30 minutes. Very tasty.

Green Beans with Pine Nuts and Lemon Zest: The easiest recipe ever. Blanched the green beans and soaked it in a cold water bath to retain the crispiness. Then I drizzled the green beans with lemon zest, toasted pine nuts, olive oil, and salt and pepper. That's it -- easy. The toasted pine nuts added a nice texture and flavour to this easy and elegant dish.

Brussels Sprout with White Bean and Pecorino: I have never been a fan of brussels sprouts but always have this veggie as a must on the Thanksgiving menu. Each year I try to mix up the recipes, last year with a brussel sprout-cauliflower gratin, and the year before, steamed brussel sprouts with bacon. This year, I added white bean to the brussels sprouts and some Italian percorino to round out the flavour. My favorite brussels sprout recipe so far, liked the beans more so than the brussels sprouts.

Mashed Potato with Gravy: As long as you don't skim on the fat i.e. butter and milk, you can't really make a bad mashed potato. Keenan made the mashed potato and I saw how much fat went into that pot! You really don't want to know... The result: silky, creamy, and oh-so addicting mash. He also carved the turkey. Check out his Movember mustache...makes him look six years older.

Tiramisu: One of my friends made a delicious tiramisu for dessert. The luscious espresso-infused sponge cake was layered with delectable mascarpone and topped with cocoa powder. The secret: Baily's Irish Cream. It was amazing!

My Thanksgiving Plate paired with an excellent Barolo for the perfect Italian-themed Thanksgiving. The best part, besides spending the evening with Keenan and friends, was watching classic American football on Thanksgiving day. We watched the Detroit Lions vs. Green Bay Packers game live via the NFL GamePass, but couldn't stay up for the San Francisco 49ers vs. Baltimore Raven Game (aka Jim Harbaugh vs. John Harbaugh) as we fell into a tryptophan-induced sleep.

I hope you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving with your loved ones! Be thankful every day for life's many blessings. I was telling my older sister in Hong Kong that it is holidays like this one that I wish we didn't live on three different continents. Keenan and I are incredibly thankful for friends and family on both sides of the pond.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all!

Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

2011-11-19T22:17:00.000Z

In all my visits to Italy, I have never spent much time exploring the coastal gems of Italy: Cinque Terre, the Amalfi Coast or the Italian islands of Sardinia or Sicily. That is, of course, until last week when we went for a short getaway to the beautiful Amalfi Coast.

We based ourselves in the cute little town of Sorrento and made ourselves comfortably at home at the Magi House, a lovely B&B/apartment wonderfully located in Sorrento's historic quarters, just a stone's throw away from the seafront promenade. We stayed in the "Mediterranea" flat at Magi House, a comfortable ultra-modern loft apartment decked out in white decor, even the frame of the "tellie" was white with a splash of pink and purple. The flat had an open floor plan with the living room bleeding into the efficient kitchenette, and a spacious granite-clad bathroom. Upstairs was the bedroom with a California king bed featuring glass floors and a view of the living room. The decor was on the feminine side, but we very much enjoyed the Magi House, thanks to the gracious and helpful reception staff and convenient location.

As it was mid-November, Sorrento wasn't terribly busy, which was great as we really got to enjoy this lovely town without fighting the hordes of tourist. We loved strolling through the alleyways, browsing through little shops selling nativity scenes, limoncello liqueur, and local crafts. While the weather was mild, it wasn't quite beach weather either so we spent most of the sunny days sitting in cafes or exploring hilltop towns along the coast.

On Saturday, we took a spectacular drive along the narrow and windy road up to Ravello, a ritzy jet-setting resort town perched between Valley del Dragone and Valley della Regina with spectacular views of the rugged coast. Both Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone are worth a visit if only for the amazing views and gorgeous gardens.

Back on the twisting, switch-back roads, we drove through the town of Amalfi and then to Positano, another picturesque resort town built on the slopes of the hill. It had a more sophisticated feel than Sorrento with elegant boutiques, upscale hotels, and beautiful pastel-washed homes overlooking the sea. Down below, the beaches were near empty and all we saw was a large blanket of black-sanded beach and the endless blue sea. If it was summer, you may just find me on one of those orange-clad lounge chairs on the beach and I may never leave, but alas it was starting to get chilly as the sun was starting to set. It was time to head back to Sorrento.

Positano:

The drive along the Amalfi Coast was probably one of the scenic and rewarding drives, ranking high up with the drives along Chapman's Peak in South Africa and Highway 1 in San Francisco. I am a sucker for views and this one certainly did not disappoint.

If we weren't taking in the panoramic view of the Amalfi Coast, then we were certainly indulging ourselves in local cuisine. We had several enjoyable meals, my favorite being the Inn Bufalito in Sorrento, a fun and lively mozzarella bar and taverna serving up traditional Neapolitan dishes with a modern touch.

Its speciality is buffalo and bufala cheese in all forms. We started off with mozzerella di bufala with a drizzle of Campania olive oil and fresh baby cherry tomato, which was the best mozzarella I have ever tasted, followed by a buffalo ragu pasta with bufala ricotta, a hearty and tasty dish that paired well with local red wine. At this point, I was so stuffed I wasn't sure if I could polish off my main course of mussels sauteed in white wine and herbs. Keenan somehow found a third stomach and devoured his third and final buffalo dish, a stew this time. The crowd was young, the staff was energetic, and food was delicious -- all for 60 euros including tip. Overall a great evening.

We also went to Ristorante La Basilica in Sorrento, which had a more formal, old world feel than Inn Bufalito and the cooking was more traditional. We both ordered the veal, which was nothing special. The wine list here was huge, some 30 plus pages of wine from Italy and beyond, and a lot pricey than other restaurants in the area. Complimentary bread basket and a limoncello (they love lemons in Sorrento) as an digestif.

While in Ravello, we had lunch at Cumpa' Cosimo, a family-run restaurant popular with locals serving homemade Sorrentine dishes. I had a regional speciality of gnocchi alla sorrentina, a gnocchi with a smoky bacon tomato-based sauce topped with mozzerella cheese, and Keenan had the vegetarian ravioli. Generous portions, pleasant owners, and no views of the coast, but good value.

The weekend was too short, as they always are. We wished we could stay for another night, but alas we had to head back to London. The Amalfi Coast is such a beautiful corner of Italy. The geography, terrain, and ruggedness is unbelievable and pictures don't do it justice. I look forward to future visits to Cinque Terre and Piedmont, home of the famous truffle festival and the Barolo wines. Until we meet again. I will keep the amazing scenery in my mind...

Pizza Pilgrimage to Naples, Italy

2011-11-15T22:02:00.001Z

Most people bypass Naples in favor for the dramatic views and chic seaside resorts on the Amalfi Coast, and for good reasons: the Amalfi Coast is simply jaw-dropping gorgeous. But for the food lover, Naples is worth a stop-over if only for the famous pizzas as well as the delicious Mozzarella di Bufala Campana, fresh seafood, and tomato-based pastas. Keenan adores pizza and if it were up to him, he could eat pizza and pasta every day for the rest of his life. For him, going to Naples was one-part business trip and one-part pilgrimage to the birthplace of pizza.

Naples is gritty, sprawling, and chaotic with maddening bumper-to-bumper traffic. It's not the most picturesque Italian city but still retains its down-at-heel charm with Baroque churches and rustic trattorias jammed into the historic UNESCO-protected Centro Storico. We had a car during our time in Naples and the Amalfi Coast, probably not the best idea as driving in Naples takes skills and patience, but Keenan needed a car to get to his business meeting, plus we planned on taking a driving tour along the coast. I am surprised that we returned the car without any scratches and with the bumper and rims still intact. There are also several museums worth visiting such as the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte, but unfortunately spent most of our time sitting in traffic that we had to cut museum time out of the itinerary.

Once out of the car, we spent the afternoon stretching our legs and meandering around the narrow streets in the historic centre and eventually found our way to Sorbillo Pizzeria, a Neapolitan institution along with Da Michelle and Di Matteo. Located on Via dei Tribunali, where scenes from "Eat Pray Love" were filmed, the pizzas at Sorbillo were delicious and great value with most pizzas priced at €6.00. Fresh from the wood-fired brick oven, the pizza dough at Sorbillo was perfectly fluffy with the right amount of char, drizzled with home-made tomato sauce, mushroom, mozzarella, and prosciutto. Ummmm...pizza.

Needing to burn off the carb-dense lunch, we took a leisurely walk in the fashionable district of Chiaia along the Bay of Naples to Castel dell'Ovo for panoramic views of Naples and the Sorrentine Peninsula. Here Mt. Vesuvius, the famous stratovolcano responsible for the destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum in 79 AD, dominates the landscape. The weather was incredibly mild for mid-November, a perfect 21C/70F.

From here we drove up to Vomero, a pleasant leafy hilltop neighbourhood fringed with little cafes, gelato shops, restaurants, and shops around Piazza Vanvitelli and a pedestrianised shopping area filled with all the popular high street brands such as Zara, United Colors of Benetton, H&M, and the ubiquitous Coin department store.

For dinner, we went to a home-style osteria called Donna Teresa, which was recommended by Keenan's colleague who grew up outside of Naples. Family-run and operated, the cooking was simple but tasty and excellent value -- it's like having dinner at your aunt's house. There is no menu and the choice is limited depending on the daily special. We each ordered the tomato-based pasta with ragu as our starters, and for the mains, I had the lightly fried fish, and Keenan had the jumbo meatball in tomato sauce, all washed down with local Campania red wine and an amaretto-infused sponge cake for dessert. The total bill was €30 for two starters, two mains, one dessert, half litre of house red wine, and tip.

We spent the rest of the weekend in Sorrento (more on that later) and the Amalfi Coast but had the opportunity to walk the rim of Mt. Vesuvius on our way back to the airport on Sunday. If you plan on visiting Mt. Vesuvisu, ignore your GPS system no matter what she tells you, and remember to take the exit from Torre del Greco, if coming from Sorrentine Penninsula, for the road up 1,281m to Mt. Vesuvius. Once on top, you'll have to pay the €8 admission fee to walk the crater.

Having never visited an active volcano before, it was quite interesting and the views are incredible, even the autumn foliage was feast to the eyes. If you expect to see flowing lava, you'll be sorely disappointed, you may smell sulphur and see some steam but that's it. It's mind-blowing to know that there are some 3 million people living in the vicinity of Mt. Vesuvius; what if she erupts? If we had an extra day we would have loved to visit the Roman towns Pompeii, which I hear is expansive and takes a better part of a day, and Herculaneum, and the nearby Greek temple of Paestum.

The Campania region is filled with fascinating history spanning several millennias and one stunning coastline, definitely worthy of a visit beyond a long weekend. Next up: Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast.

The Other Financial Centre: Canary Wharf

2011-11-09T05:37:00.000Z

Last week on my way back from a meeting in EastLondon, I stopped by Canary Wharf to have lunch with Keenan at my favoriteburger joint in London, Byron Burger. Since I have been remiss about writing onLondon neighbourhoods as of late, I thought I share a post about Canary Wharf,otherwise known as the other financial centre in London alongside the City.Headquarter to some of the world’s largest banks including HSBC and Barclays,it is said that some 100,000 people commute into Canary Wharf each day, andthat would also include Keenan. If you are Facebook friends with Keenan, then youmost likely have heard him complain at some point about the Jubilee Line, whichalways manage to have a “signal failure” or a “man on the tracks” at the mostinconvenient time. Oh, the love/hate relationship with the Tube…

Alighting at the Canary Wharf underground station, Iam greeted by the ticker sign of Thomas Reuters and a dozen or so gleamingmodern skyscrapers, most bearing the names of major financial institutions –State Street, Citibank, Northern Trust, and the former Lehman Brothers-nowNomura-and soon to be J.P. Morgan building. Sometimes I forget that I am inLondon when I am in Canary Wharf as if I was transplanted to some Americancity. While you won’t find any elegant Victorian architecture in this corner ofLondon, however what you will find is an underground mall (yes, underground) withall your favorite high-street retailers -- Reiss, Karen Millen, Ted Baker, LKBennett, among others. For all the husbands and boyfriends with deep pockets lookingfor the perfect gift for the wife/girlfriend, take note: there is a Tiffany& Co in Chabot Place.

The dining scene in Canary Wharf has evolvedsignificantly over the past few years. Jamie’s Italian, Roka, and Gaucho haveall opened branches here. Other noteworthy restaurants in the area include theaward-winning gastropub, The Gun, newcomer pan-Asian restaurant, Sri Nam, andthe long awaited Obika Mozzerella Bar due to open in late November. For thoselooking for a more casual lunch spot, there is also your high street chains:Itsu, Nandos, Pizza Express, EAT, and Pret a Manger. If you need to stretchyour legs or get a bit of fresh air, you can stroll around the Docklands or walkthrough Jubilee Park., or simply go window-shopping and let your credit card dothe work. If you make the trek all the way out to Canary Wharf, I also highlyrecommend heading to Greenwich, which is just a few stops south on the DLR tovisit the National Maritime Museum and the Royal Observatory. And if you are aserious seafood lover, arrive here at the wee hours (5am to 8:30am) Tuesday toSaturday for the famous Billingates Market for some fresh supply of seafood,otherwise, avoid heading towards Canary Wharf during rush hour.

By theway, it’s Movember month and Keenan has promised to grow a moustache to raisefunds and awareness for men’s health, specifically prostate cancer and othercancers that affect men. I will be posting photos soon, but what kind of moustachewill it be? Stay tuned!

Happy Halloween!

2011-10-31T21:14:00.001Z

October is always a fun month at Casa di Lily & Keenan. Three family birthdays, wedding anniversary, Londoniversary, and of course Halloween, one of our favorite holidays. Last year we missed all the Halloween festivities as Keenan's Dad was in town for the 49ers game at Wembley Stadium, and the previous year, I was in Florence, Italy with a good friend from San Francisco.

This year, a group of expat friends from Chicago hosted a "Neverland" themed Halloween party at their flat up in West Hampstead. A full house of all the Neverland characters: Peter Pan, Captain Hook (and Hooker), Tinkerbell, Jon Darling, Pirates, Wendy, 'The Alligator,' two Tiger Lilies, plus a bunch of other creative costumes, including Lawrence of Arabia and Cleopatra, Ken and Barbie, Zorro, The Red Devil, a London Rioter (sans loot and trainers), and (Dead) Alice in Wonderland. Decked out with spooky Halloween decorations, Neverland had a bar full of poison, a cauldron of spiked apple cider, and tons of candy and even cupcakes from the Hummingbird.

In keeping with the theme, Keenan dressed up as Peter Pan - the boy who refuses to grow up - by recycling his famously green hermit outfit that he wore at the Robin Hood-themed Stag party in Nottingham, a huge contrast from his zoombie outfit from a few years ago. Minnie Mouse also made an appearance sporting her red shirt and trademark yellow shoes. Yes, we chose very G-rated costumes, even little kiddies on the Tube stopped and said hello to Peter Pan and Minnie Mouse. It was good fun! Thanks for a great evening!

Be safe and Happy Halloween from London! Love, Minnie Mouse and Peter Pan xx

Cheltenham in the Cotswolds

2011-10-20T09:48:00.000+01:00

Looking for a quick getaway to the English countryside, Keenan and I found ourselves in the lovely town of Cheltenham on the foot of Cotswolds. We couldn't have picked a better weekend to visit "Britain’s most complete regency town"; the sun was brilliantly shining and autumn colours reign supreme in this elegant and sophisticated town. Strolling along the tree-lined Promenade whilst admiring the gorgeous white-painted facades of mansion villas adorned with wrought iron balconies, we made our way to the ritzy neighbourhood of Montpellier Gardens for The Times Literary Festival, one of four major festivals as part of the 'Cheltenham Festivals.'

The Literary Festival is a ten-day celebration with over 400 events featuring award-winning authors, poets, journalists, food critics, and politicians. We were lucky to see former BBC war reporter Martin Bell read from his latest book, For Whom the Bell Tolls, a collection of witty poems based on his life and experiences where he mocks everything from Britney Spears, American baseball, women named Hope, Charity, and Faith, and the Kindles. Bell was not only hilarious, he also confessed that he was completely smitten by Angelina Jolie whom he recently interviewed on her role as the UNHCR Goodwill Ambassador. His new book instantly sold out at the Waterstone tent, but we were still able to get his autograph on an official Cheltenham Literary Festival notecard.

Coinciding with The Literary Festival was The Showcase Races, the first of eight fixtures at the world famous Cheltenham Racecourse, leading up to the most prestigious of all events in steeplechasing held in March, also confusingly named The Festival. This beautiful racecourse, set against a natural backdrop of the rolling Cotswolds hills, is conveniently located just a mile away from the town centre along Evesham Road near the the historic Pittville Pump Room.

The atmosphere at The Showcase was far more low-key than the Royal Ascot, trading in whimsical fascinators and dresses in favour of warm wool coats and sturdy boots, but the spirit of the races reign supreme. To feel the full excitement of the event, it is worth bringing some cash and head to the "bookie" to place bets on your favorite horse. Invest in a racecard to review the form (performance at previous races) of each horse and bring binoculars to follow all the action as the Cheltenham Racecourse is quite large. Some races were more exciting than others, especially towards the final jump when three or more horses are head-to-head. We even witnessed a jockey fall off his horse on the final jump, but the white horse still managed to finish at a competitive fifth place without his jockey. It was a great day out watching one of Britain's greatest sporting spectacles.

The next day we took advantage of the weather and went for a long "hike" south of town to Leckhampton Hill in the "Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty." Walking pass beautiful Regency-style villas set back in the woods on Bath Road, this part of Cheltenham reminded me a lot of the Berkeley Hills in my native California. Just beautiful. The views from Leckhampton Hill overlooking Cheltenham were also amazing. On a clear day, you can see as far as the Brecon Beacons in Wales.

Roaming around the park, we eventually found Leckhampton Hill's famous landmark, the Devil's Chiminey, a peculiar limestone rock formation that resembled a twisted chimney. Legend holds that the Devil's Chimney is the chimney of the Devil's dwelling deep beneath the ground. After our leisurely hike, we went for a traditional Sunday roast at local pub called the Norwood Arm before heading back to London. A bit sad that our short weekend in Glouceshire came to an end but at least we know that the Cotswolds is just a short train ride away.

Anniversary Celebrations at Bistro du Vin & Zucca

2011-10-11T22:39:00.000+01:00

Last weekend Keenan and I celebrated three years of marital bliss! It just so happens we now share the same anniversary date with Sir Paul McCartney and the new Lady McCartney who tied the knot on 9th October at Marylebone Town Hall. Congratulations to the newly-weds!

To kick-start our week of celebration, Keenan and I met at Bistro du Vin Soho for a leisurely mid-week lunch, something we have never done before since neither of us work in the same area. The latest addition to the Hotel and Bistro du Vin group, Bistro du Vin on Dean Street is a large venue decorated in taupe and neutral hues combined with light and natural oak, giving this brasserie-style dining room a warm modern atmosphere. The Salon Room surrounded with a rainbow wall of books added a splash a colour, while the long wall-length pewter bar is the perfect place to grab a pre-dinner cocktail. We went straight for the champagne to mark the occasion. The super attentive waitstaff showed us to our table which had a view of the open plan kitchen. The modern European menu is heavily focused on the classics, but true to their homegrown & local philosophy, all ingredients are top-quality, sourced from Donald Russell, Mauldon Oysters, and Foreman's Smoked Salmon to name a few.

As a starter, I ordered the foie gras & chicken liver parfait presented in its own little pot with toasted bread and chutney, which was heavenly delicious, followed by the duck, seared to a perfect balance of tenderness on the inside and crispiness on the outside. Simple but excellent cooking and generous portions. Keenan ordered the rabbit terrine as a starter, then the steak pie with a golden flaky crust and a side of buttery mash potato. To complement our lunch, we ordered a bottle of Cote du Rhone from the Bistro's lengthy wine list to pair with both our starters and mains, and the white chocolate cheesecake to round out the meal. Two hours later, we left the restaurant full of gourmet goodness and promised each other to meet more often for lunch. Our only regret was not being able to sample the artisan cheeses from Eric Charriaux from the Le Cave du Fromage.

To keep the celebration going, we went to Zucca for dinner on Saturday. Tucked away on Bermondsey Street, this stylish modern restaurant decorated in white with hints of orange, a small tribute to its name meaning "pumpkin" in Italian, Zucca has earned raving review from food critics and a Bib Gourmand. The food is excellent for the price and it is no surprise that you have to book six weeks in advance for a table. In the kitchen, ex-River Chef Sam Harris creates a changing menu where anti-pasti are all under £5, the pastas in two portions are £7 or £9, and all mains are around £15. Zucca also has a long wine-list of mostly Italian wines with bottles starting at £18. Since it was our anniversary dinner, we brought a bottle of Ettore Germano Nebbiolo Langhe for a £10 corkage fee.

We were promptly seated for our 8pm reservation and the delightful waitstaff brought a complimentary basket of bread and fresh extra virgin olive. For starters, we shared the carpaccio of sea bass, which was incredibly fresh drizzled with olive oil and specks of chili pepper, and the brushetta with smoked eel, an interesting combination but well-executed dish with balanced flavour. Zucca's changing menu generally features two pastas on the menu. We opted to share the Amatriciana, a tasty dish made of guanciale, percorino cheese, and tomato over fresh homemade pasta. Finally, for the mains, I ordered Zucca's signature dish -- the veal chops with spinach and lemon. The portion was extremely generous and the meat was soft and succulent, grilled to my liking and full of flavour. Keenan, a lover of anything with tomatoes and garlic, ordered the grilled octopus with pepper. While generally not a fan of cephalopod due to its texture, Keenan loved his main. According to him, the octopus wasn't soft, or even tender, but rather it melted in your mouth with flavourful morsels of garlic, oregano, basil, fresh saltwater, and young tomatoes. We finished off the evening with some sweetness, a heavenly dark chocolate cake, a perfect ending to a lovely evening.

Zucca exceeds expectations -- the food is divine, the atmosphere is lively, and the prices are very reasonably especially for London. It won't be too long before I return. Thanks for lovely evening and cheers to another year of marriage and many more to come...

Arundel Castle on the Hottest Day in October

2011-10-06T22:19:00.000+01:00

Last Saturday was not only the hottest day ever recorded in October, but it was also the third warmest day of the year. In fact, we had a nice stretch of uninterrupted sunshine and warmth for nearly a week! It was simply brilliant. With the temperature soaring to 84F on an unseasonably warm October afternoon, most people made a beeline to the southern beaches of Brighton, Bournemouth, and Weymouth, however, Keenan and I had other plans in mind: a visit to the historic Arundel Castle.

Until a few months ago, I have never heard of Arundel Castle. Warwick Castle, sure. Leeds Castle, of course. Arundel? Where's that?

Located in West Sussex on the River Arun, just a 45 minute train ride from London Victoria, Arundel Castle is a historic medieval castle founded in 1067 by Roger de Montgomery as a fortress to protect invaders approaching from the English Channel. Since the 11th century, Arundel Castle has been the stately home and the principal seat of the Duke of Norfolk and his family for over 850 years. This meticulously restored castle is open to visitors from April to October, and is equally as impressive as the Royal Windsor Castle.

The property itself sits on a hilltop with 40 acres of land with several beautifully manicured gardens and sweeping view of West Sussex. We spent a good hour walking through the lavish garden. The trees gave a nice respite from the warm autumn heat as we made our way to the Collector Earl's Garden, a lovely memorial garden built in 2008 to honor Thomas Howard, the 14th Earl of Arundel who died in exile during the English Civil War. We then went to explore the interior of the castle, namely the Castle Keep and Castle Bedrooms, which contained old bedroom furniture, paintings from Van Dyck, china, and tapestries.

After spending a good part of the afternoon admiring the architectural beauty and exquisite gardens of Arundel Castle, we walked about a mile up on Mill Road to a great riverside pub recommended by a work colleague called the Black Rabbit for an alfresco lunch and iced-cold pint. Being one of the hottest day of the year, the pub was packed with local families and day-trippers who were enjoying the gentle breeze and amazing views of Arundel castle in the distance and pastoral landscapes of West Sussex. Of course, it was also an opportunity bask in the sun and stock up on some vitamin D before the long winter hibernation. Highly recommend Arundel Castle as an easy half-day trip from London.

Auschwitz & Birkenau Extermination Camps

2011-10-04T16:38:00.003+01:00

Grey, un-textured patterns painted the flat skies above the longhorizon. The late summer air, warmand stale, was silent with little more than a light breeze to remind us that wewere not imbeded in a photograph, but actually standing on the grounds of oneof the biggest mass murder scenes in the history of mankind. The day’s weather matched the preconceivedimages in which we have grown familiar from films such as Scihndler’s List and countless other documentaries that chronicle thishorrific and notorious space.

Our day in Auschwitz and Birkenau was not our first timevisiting a place of genocide. In2007, during a visit to Cambodia, we visited the Killing Fields outside ofPhnom Penh, as well as the Tuong Sleng Genocide Museum where Pol Pot exactedmurder and torture on his own people during the years of the Cambodiangenocide. Similar to ourexperience there, we returned to Krakow from Auschwitz and Birkenau emotionallyand intellectually drained.

As an avid follower of twentieth century history, visitingthe grounds of Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau has always been on my listof important places to travel. Places like Tuong Sleng and the Nazi extermination camps are eternal andsomber memorials to the victims of the worst kinds of atrocities and serve as physical evidence which reminds us thathumanity’s predisposition towards madness is real and more present than wesometimes like to believe.

The tour begins at Auschwitz I, largely the prison campportion of the site and the more museum-like of the two, documenting every lastdetail of the Nazi’s “Final Solution”, thanks largely to the Nazi’s own highlyefficient, methodical, and documented plans. Auschwitz I is also the only portion of the camp which stillcontains a fully undamaged gas chamber and incinerator, owing to the othersbeing destroyed on the eve of the Soviet advance and as an attempt to cover upevidence of the genocide. The tourfinishes at the sprawling Auschwitz II-Birkenau site, the primary purpose ofwhich was mass extermination, a highly organized and meticulous killing factorycomposed only of gas chambers and furnaces with only the most rudimentarybarracks and watchtowers as the other structures on the grounds.

While in Krakow it is also worth a visit to OskarSchindler’s Factory, located in the industrial area of the former Jewishghetto. If you have ever been toBudapest and visited the House of Terror Museum which chronicles life inBudapest under both fascist and communist rule, then you will enjoy this newlyrefurbished world-class museum, Schindler’s former factory, which exhibits lifein Krakow under Nazi occupation. To gain a better appreciation for the relatively recent and tragichistory suffered by Poland, and to marvel at how far they have come as a nationsince, a visit to this museum is highly recommended.

The Holocaust remains one of the most frequently recognizedatrocities of the last century with volumes upon volumes of analysis attemptingto understand how it could have reached the scale that it did. The concentration camps that remainshould serve as a warning to the world that man, at his very worst, is capable ofthe most appalling evil. If youhave any interest in World War II or in the social sciences or modern historyin general, then there is plenty to keep you occupied in and around Krakow,including a visit to this site which I would consider to be required andessential for any traveler.

Tour of Krakow and the High Tatras

2011-09-28T22:06:00.000+01:00

Werecently had an opportunity to travel to Krakow, the former imperial capitaland Poland’s second city, for four days of exploring historic old towns,majestic mountains, and world-class museums.

Wroclaw Old Town

LikeWroclaw, Krakow also has a lovely Old Town, but it is much bigger and busierthan its little sister some 270 km due west. The UNESCO-listed market square,Rynek Glowny, is not only beautiful with the towering spires of the elegant St.Mary’s Basilica and the Cloth Hall, a neo-gothic covered medieval market; it isalso incredibly lively with numerous outdoor cafes, street entertainers, and artexhibitions. The compact pedestrianized streets, gorgeous architecture, andleafy park surrounding the city centre make for a delightful stroll aroundKrakow’s Old Town.

Afterspending a few hours wandering around Old Town, we hiked up to Wawel Castle, perchedon top of the hill of the same name. The royal complex is massive consisting ofthe impressive castle and cathedral, the seat of the Archdiocese of Krakow andthe traditional coronation site of Polish monarchs. Be sure to allot ample timeto wander around the grounds and visit the State Rooms & Royal Apartments, CrownTreasury, and the various museums.

Thenwe continued south to Kazimierz, the historic Jewish quarter of Krakow. Thisgritty neighbourhood with peeling facades is full of charm and not to mention, steepin history. As an avid fan of history, a trip to Krakow was an opportunity tounderstand and pay respect to the millions of people who died in the horrificevents of World War II, a topic we will write about in another post.

Inaddition to visiting several historic synagogues and the old Jewish cemetery,be sure to stop by 12 ulica Jozefa, the famous courtyard in which Steven Spielbergfilmed his Oscar-winning movie Schindler’sList. While you will instantly recognize the famous archway and stairwell,today the courtyard has been converted into a restaurant and pub. Kazimierz mayappear sleepy by day, but by night, it come alive as a hipster/bohemian hangoutwith atmospheric bars and beer gardens. If you need a break in between sightseeing, we highlyrecommend the Beer Gallery on ul. Warszauera, which serves over 100 beersincluding local beers on tap, La Trappe, and Kozel.

Whenwe travel, we always make an effort to sample local cuisines. Polish food ishomey, simple, and very hearty. The food scene varies from cheap milk bars (BarMleczny), a Polish institution dating back from the Communist government inefforts to encourage milk consumption, to high-end Michelin rated restaurants.We had an enjoyable dinner of traditional Polish food at Chlopskie Jadio, avillage-themed restaurant on ul. Jana 3 in Old Town. They serve a complimentarylard with a basket of bread, which we tried but didn’t like, but the adjacenttable filled with Polish businessmen devoured their little pots of lard. Weordered Polish classics: beetroot soup, pierogi (Polish dumplings) and Bigos(Polish stew), all washed down with local draft beer. The pierogis were a bit on the doughy side for my liking,but nonetheless delicious, and the stew was hearty and packed with flavours ofEastern Europe’s favourite spice: paprika.

Onanother evening in Krakow, we were on a mission to find the best kielbasa intown. A bit a research and a short walk from the Old Town later, we foundourselves queuing behind a line of loyal followers at the legendary blue vanparked outside of Hala Targowa. This place is run by two elder gentlemen whomake their own kielbasa and is open 6 days a week from 8pm to 3am. Grilled toperfection over a makeshift open flame pit, the footlong kielbasa is servedwith a crusty bun and a splash of mustard and ketchup. This is by far the bestsausage we have ever tasted. It puts Top Dog in Berkeley to shame. And at £1.55 each, I almost ordered a secondhelping, but refrained in favour of another popular street food: zapiekanka(Polish pizzas), a toasted open-faced baguette sandwich topped with a varietyof toppings. The best zapiekanka stands are located in Plac Nowy in Kazimierz.

WithSlovakia just 106 km away and with an opportunity to put yet another countryunder our belt, we decided to take drive to the High Tatras mountains for theday. Straddled between Poland and Slovakia, the High Tatras offers some amazingmountain scenery -- protruding peaks, lakes, valleys and waterfalls.

AtStary Smokovec, a little resort town in Slovakia, we went for a short 2 hourhike to the Cold Stream Waterfall. I was a bit alarmed initially as I washiking through huge patches of barren land, but I later discovered it was theresult of a massive windstorm in 2004 that uprooted a significant portion ofthe forest. It will take years if not decades for full recovery. The HighTatras is every hiker’s dream – lovely pine-clad mountains, fresh air, andsmall crowds.

Onour way back to Krakow, we stopped off in Zakopane, a busy resort town on the Polishborder, for a very late alfresco lunch. The drive back to Krakow was pleasant –the sun was starting to set behind the High Tatras. It was the perfect way toend our time in Poland.

Next: Day Trip to Auschwitz.

Historic York

2011-09-20T12:10:00.000+01:00

Continuing on our series of day trips from London, last Saturday Keenan and I went up to the historic city of York compliments of our friend Reed. Last year, on the last leg of his eight-week post-bar European trip, Reed's 4.5 hr train ride from London to Edinburgh turned into a 10 hr nightmare. To compensate for the inconvenience, East Coast Rails offered him a refund voucher, but since he is San Francisco eagerly awaiting the birth of his first child in December, he generously gave the vouchers to us. Thanks Reed!

York is an easy 2 hour train ride from London on the super fast train, although train fares can be quite expensive so do keep an eye out for special discounts on East Coast Rails. It is a charming walled city filled with history dating back to the Roman period. Originally founded in 71 AD as a Roman fort called Eboracum, it then became Saxon Eofowic, the capital of Northumbria, and later a thriving Viking settlement known as Jorvik before the Norman Conquest when the town became known by its present name, York.

We instantly fell in love with York and highly recommend this historic town as a day trip or better yet, an overnight trip combined with a visit to Harrogate. We started the day walking along the 800 year old preserved medieval walls which led us to the bank of River Ouse, Skeldergate Bridge, and Clifford's Tower, the proud symbol of power of England's medieval kings. A short climb to Clifford's Tower affords you with amazing panoramic views of York and the surrounding areas. Nearby is the York Castle Museum and Jorvik Viking Centre for those seeking a dose of Victorian history and Viking history, respectively.

By mid-afternoon, it started pouring and the smell emanating from the annual York Food and Drink Festival was making us hungry - it was time to eat. We had an excellent lunch at J. Baker Bistro Moderne on Fossgate Street; the food focused on modern British cooking using fresh local ingredients in a stylish setting. We ordered the three-course Grazing Menu for £12. The first course was a puree white bean and mushroom soup with a dash of Spanish olive oil, followed by the fish and chip on a bed of mint mushy peas, and for the last dish, a savory miniature Cornish pastry garnished with beetroot, pickled onion, and mushroom. Not only was each dish delicious and beautifully presented, but I also was very impressed by the attentive staff who took care in explaining each dish to us. Very well deserving of its accolade as one of 2010 UK Top 50 restaurants outside London.

The rain finally subsided, leaving us with perfect blue skies for the rest of the afternoon. We then strolled around the narrow alleyways called snickelways filled with small sweet shops and "haunted" pubs. You can easily pass the time window-shopping in York as the main drag, Swinegate, has a nice commercial mix of high street brands, boutiques, bookstores, tea rooms.

Next we visited the impressive York Minister. Instead of paying the £9 admission fee (a bargain compared to Westminster Abbey's fee of £16), we attended the 45 minute Evensong service at 5:15 PM. York Minister is largest Gothic cathedral north of the Alps, much larger and grander than its southern cousin in Canterbury. Be sure to walk around the exterior structure of the church to appreciate just how massive York Minister is. In front of the cathedral is a statue of Constantine the Great, who was hailed as the first Christian Emperor in York in AD 306.

We couldn't leave York without a visit to Betty's Tea Room, a Yorkshire institution dating back to 1919, to indulge in sugary sweetness. Set in a beautiful old-fashioned Art Nouveau building on St. Helen Square, Betty's makes for a lovely break in between sightseeing and shopping in historic York. We ordered a light meal and huge brown bread sundae before taking the evening train back to London.

Another lovely day trip from London; more of these day trips to come in the next few weeks. My only regret was not being able to sample some tasty Yorkshire pudding, the famous savory flour-based bread served with the quintessential British beef roast. Next time...

Stratford upon Avon: Birthplace of Shakespeare

2011-09-16T08:25:00.003+01:00

Having recently attended the critically acclaimed show of Richard III at the Old Vic Theatre featuring Kevin Spacey, we thought it would be most appropriate to pay homage to the birthplace of William Shakespeare. Just over 2 hours on the train from Marylebone station, Stratford-upon-Avon makes for an excellent day trip from London. Quaint little Stratford boasts some elegant Tudor and Elizabethan
buildings along the High Street and a picturesque riverside filled with local pubs and restaurants. A visit to Stratford-upon-Avon affords you the opportunity not only to visit Shakespeare's childhood home and his final resting place, but also the historic homes of most, if not all of his family members.

Start your walking tour at Shakespeare's Birthplace on Henley Street, where the Great Bard was born on 23 April 1564. You can purchase a special combination ticket for £12 which gives you access to all three Shakepeare sites in Stratford, but not Anne Hathaway Cottage or Mary Arden's House. The original half-timbered house was divided into two parts, allowing Shakespeare's father, a successful glover, to operate his business from the family home. At the age of 18, Shakespeare married the 26 year old Anne Hathaway when she was 3 months pregnant and together, they had a daughter, Susanna, and twin son and daughter, Hamnet and Judith. For an extra fee, you can also visit Anne's childhood thatched cottage about a mile away.

Continuing on the walking tour, next visit New Place on Chaple Street, the final residence of the Great Bard until this death. Whilst the house no later exist, you can visit the garden of New Place and the Nash House owned by his granddaughter's husband. Next stop by the Hall's Croft, a lovely Tudor home once occupied by his daughter, Susanna and her husband Dr. John Hall, before visiting Shakespeare's resting place at the nearby Holy Trinity Church where he died on his birthday in 1616.

Shakespeare's literary work requires no introduction as most of us read the brilliant work of the Great Bard in high school English or saw one of his famous plays. A trip to Stratford-upon-Avon would not be complete without watching a theatrical show at the famous Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC), which reopened in November 2010 after three years of renovation. Since we have tickets to see The Tempest starring Ralph Fiennes next month, we were in the mood for something besides Shakespeare. Luckily for us Harold Pinter’s The Homecoming was being performed by the RSC during our visit so we made sure to book ourselves in for a matinee show.

Unsettling and tense, the storyline is meant to conjure negative emotions from within, and for this reason the execution by the cast was impeccable and the audience was left feeling confused, awkward, and disturbed exactly as they were meant to. Typical of a play in the tradition of the “theatre of the absurd”, the storyline explored through intense symbolism and subtle artistic expression, elements of sexism, class divide, alienation, and the thin line between stagnation and impermanence.

The use of the color red in both stage design and in lighting throughout was effective in driving home overarching themes of anger, jealousy, shame, and hatred acted out by the characters on stage. Well worth the two hour and twenty minute running time, The Homecoming is Samuel Becket meets Mad Men meets David Lynch and is, much like many of its contemporary existentialist dramas, a literary work to be appreciated for its critique on gender, family and class issues.

Another fantastic day trip from London for the opportunity to pay homage to the most prolific and famous playwright in literary history and a nod to the Nobel Prize Winner, the late Harold Pinter.

Hong Kong - Live in London!

2011-09-11T22:56:00.000+01:00

Hong Kong offers visitorsthe opportunity to experience a unique fusion of cultures where east meets west;a vibrant place where the modern blends seamlessly with tradition, therein creatinga global city which is dynamic and cosmopolitan. Sublime aromas emanate from the streets, thousands hailing from all corners ofthe globe whirl around you, gleaming modern skyscrapers are juxtaposed againsttraditional, cramped Chinese alleyways and designer retail shops selling hautecouture are setting the trends while a vast variety of restaurants are busyvying for prestigious Michelin stars. These rewards and thrills await you in Asia’s World City.

Thelast time I stepped foot in this bustling city was to visit my older sister in2008. Since then I have always wanted to return to my favorite Asian destination,but between work commitments and a hectic travel schedule, I haven’t found the timeto travel back to Hong Kong. Lucky for me, I don’t have to go very far toexperience Hong Kong. Instead, I can experience the best of Hong Kong at mydoorstep right here in London.

Lastweek the UK Hong Kong Tourism Board invited me to a treasure hunt to promotethe upcoming street festival “Hong Kong – Live in London”, a celebration of HongKong’s vibrant culture. Our objectivewas to use the clues provided to us to uncover Hong Kong’s intimate ties andlong history with London.

The first clue tookus to landmark hotels such as The Langham, where the hotel’s signature fragrance- a lovely fresh ginger flower scent – greeted us along with the conciergestaff who presented us with pink roses, the signature colour of the luxuryhospitality group who also maintain several properties in Hong Kong. Continuing on to the iconic DorchesterHotel on Park Lane, we were escorted through the exquisite hotel lobby to themuch applauded China Tang Restaurant. Hong Kong-born Sir David Tang, the force behind China Cluband lifestyle brand Shanghai Tang, designed this gorgeous restaurant with strong influences of 1930s Shanghai, serving up authentic Cantonese food, indeedthe perfect blend and ultimate example of how east and west are combined togive birth to the epitome of Hong Kong style.

The next clue broughtus to South Molton Street, which will stage “Hong Kong – Live in London”, the week-long street festivalrunning from the 12 - 18 September 2011. To celebrate the upcoming Year of the Dragon in 2012, anauspicious year in the lunar calendar in which the dragon symbolizes prosperityand energy, itself encapsulating the spirit of Hong Kong, the UK Hong KongTourism Board will be displaying the Molton Street Dragons installation. Acollection of five interactive dragons aptly named Cosmopolitan, Fusion,Variety, Trends, and Vibrancy will give visitors a flavour of the differentelements that make Hong Kong the most exciting and exotic metropolis in Asia.

A center ofexcellence for style and gastronomy, eating and shopping are two majoractivities to keep visitors and locals alike entertained. It is no surprise that Hong Kong is a culinary heaven for the food lover. Brimming with over 30,000 restaurants, ranging from smalldumpling shops to Michelin-starred restaurants, Hong Kong offers everyimaginable cuisine, from regional Chinese, Thai, and Brazilian to Japanese,Lebanese, French, and even Mexican. A visit to Hong Kong will no doubt be a feast for the senses,and the ultimate gratification to satisfy any appetite.

As guests of the UKHong Kong Tourism Board, we were in for a treat. Executive Chef Tsang Chiu King of the two-star Michelinrestaurant Ming Court at Langham Place, Hong Kong flew in to promote the Bestof Hong Kong through its culinary legacy. We sampled several signature dishes of Ming Court, includingthe Deep-Fried Shrimp Toast, a Crispy Sole Filet with Yuzu Honey, and theaward-winning Chicken Black Truffle with Pumpkin. These dishes truly embody thefusion cooking of east and west, combining traditional Cantonese cookingtechniques with European ingredients. The pan-fried minced chicken meat cooked on the traditionalwok was perfectly seasoned and coated with a luscious layer of black truffle,then infused with the aroma of deep-fried shallots and accompanied by a sliceof pan-fried pumpkin. This is a wellexecuted dish that pairs amazingly well with a crispy white wine. Teaming up with Head Chef AlanMarchetti, you will have an opportunity to taste Chef Tsang’s culinary creationat the Mews of Mayfair on Lancashire Court from the 12 - 25 September throughtheir special, jointly created Asian-influenced menu.

Hong Kong is worldrenowned for its trend-setting creative industry; from film-makers such as Director Wong Kar Wai, actors Chow YunFat and Maggie Cheung, and the haute couture through the creative work offashion designers Vivienne Tam and Lu Lu Cheng. Much like the role of itscousin, London, it is no surprise that Hong Kong is a major fashion centre ofAsia. Visitors to Hong Kong canindulge in some serious retail therapy, another local favorite past time. You will find a range of everything youcan imagine, from international designer brands in upmarket Tsim Sha Tsui or inCentral, to stylish boutiques and retail shops in Causeway Bay, to streetmarkets in Yau Ma Tei such as the famous Ladies’ Market and the Temple StreetNight Market for affordable fashion accessories, knock-off handbags, andeverything in between including electronic goods, jewelry, and antiques.

Speaking ofshopping, the treasure hunt then took us to Beatrix Ong’s flagship store on theBurlington Arcades in Mayfair. Knownfor her “creative twist on the classic” shoes, Hong Kong-transplant Ong hasearned her stripes as one of London’s rising fashion designers, receiving herMBE honor this year for her service to the fashion industry.

The last clue tookus to the beautiful rooftop bar Aqua Spirit on Arygll Street forevening cocktails. The design is modernsleek with a touch of Asian accents adorning the walls. The connection? It also has a sister branch in HongKong, which occupies the 30th floor of a high-rise office buildingin Tsim Sha Tsui. With incredible views ofthe city, Aqua Spirit Hong Kong has all the “wow” factor and is the place to beseen with a killer cocktail.

Betweeneating, shopping, and wandering among the alleys and streets beneath thetowering buildings, be certain to immerse yourself in Hong Kong’s rich Chinesecultural heritage. For the mostamazing sights of the city’s iconic skyline, take the famous Star Ferry acrossthe Victoria Harbour or ride the peak tram to Victoria Peak for fantasticviews of Hong Kong Island. Make it a point to mingle with the locals and expats at theLondon-inspired pubs of Lan Kwai Fong, roam the escalators and browse the cafesthat adorn SoHo, and of course visit the world’s tallest outdoor seated bronzeBuddha on Lantau Island for a moment of calm and serenity before getting backto it all again.

Can’tget to Hong Kong in the near future? Head over to South Molton Street for the "Hong Kong – Live in London" Festival from the 12 - 18 September 2011 to sample the Best of Hong Kong andenter for a chance to win a trip to Hong Kong, Asia’s World City.

BBC Proms at the Royal Albert Hall

2011-09-08T12:58:00.000+01:00

Last week a friend of mine asked me to Proms. Prom? As in ahigh school prom? But didn’t you graduate from high school some ten years ago?Yes, I did and no, not that kind of prom. Unlike the North American tradition,where “prom” refers to the end-of-the-year formal dance of high school seniors, “Proms” here is best known as The BBC Proms, a eight-week summer classicalmusic festival.

Each year the BBC Proms takes place at the beautiful RoyalAlbert Hall in South Kensington. This iconic building was completed in 1871 inmemory of Prince Albert, which drew much of its architectural inspiration fromthe ancient Roman amphitheatres. It is a stunning rotunda building completewith comfortable red velvet seats and lines of fiberglass acoustic discs litblue hanging from the ceiling to diffuse the acoustical problems resulting fromthe glass dome. The term “prom” is short for promenade concerts, but todaypromming refers to the use of standing areas in the Royal Albert Hall where concert-goers (or prommers)can purchase discounted day of tickets for a mere £5. This is my third summerin London, and yet, I have never attended Proms until this past Tuesdayevening.

My German-born friend selected Tuesday night’s performanceas nod to one of the most illustrious contemporary German composers, GustavMahler. Tuesday night featured the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestrawith Manfred Honeck as the Conductor and German violinist Anne-Sophie Mutter.The concert started with Prelude to Wagner’s ethereal sixth opera, Lohengrin; followed by violinistAnne-Sophie Mutter playing Wolfgang Rihm’s TimeChant, a rather difficult piece to listen to due to the long stretches on violin. Closing the evening was Mahler’s Fifth Symphony No. 5, a 73 minute pieceof work in five movements. It started with high drama of a funeral march and ended with a beautiful piece Adagietto, written for his beloved wife Alma. The packed audiencegave a rousing applause at the conclusion of the evening, and the PittsburghSymphony Orchestra was more than delighted to play two encores for theaudience.

This annual summer concert series is not to be missed by anyclassical music lover. It was a lovely evening catching up with my friend and exchanging travel stories about our respective trips to San Francisco.

International Friendly: Brazil vs. Ghana

2011-09-06T12:16:00.001+01:00

Last night Keenan and I went to our very first football game in London (that would be soccer for all you Americans) with our group of Brazilian friends to watch an International Friendly between Brazil and Ghana.

Donning the Brazilian colours of blue, green, and yellow, we made our way to Craven Cottage (home of Fulham F.C.) located on the banks of the River Thames in borough of Hammersmith & Fulham. The stadium was surprisingly simple with old wooden seats and very small with a capacity of just over 25,000. We didn’t mind as the intimate atmosphere gave the spectators good views of the pitch even from the “nose bleeder” seats.

Keenan and I arrived early to watch the Brazilian national team warm up. A stone’s throw away was Flamengo-star player Ronaldinho stretching his hamstrings, while Santos’ Neymar was passing the ball around to fellow countrymen Lucio, and Lucas was found dribbling the ball along the sidelines. On the other side of the pitch was Ghana, the team that knocked Team USA out of the World Cup last year and was later defeated by Uruguay in a thrilling quarter-final game which ended in missed penalty kick by Asamoah Gyan, who didn’t play in this Friendly due to injuries.

I’m no football expert but my overall impression of the game was it was a bit slow with a few glimpses of thrill including: the goal that was ruled as offside; double yellow card against Ghana’s Daniel Opare within 30 minutes of the game; Neymar’s missed header some 10 yards from the goal; Ronaldinho’s brilliant free kick which was tipped by the hardworking goalkeeper; and of course, the one and only goal scored for the evening by Brazil’s Leonardo Damiao at the 45th minute.

Brazilians are huge football fanatics and the crowd did not disappoint with the Brazilian supporters chanting “Brasil, Brasil, Brasil!.” The atmosphere was fun and jovial – the audience doing the “wave” around the stadium, bantering with Ghanaian supporters, and samba dancers entertained the crowd at half-time. It was a lot of fun! A hilarious moment was at the conclusion of game when a fan made his way on to the pitch and managed to run the entire length of the field (and back!), dodging security guards along the way as if he was playing American football! Hilarious...

This was a much-needed win for Brazil after a disastrous quarter-final exit in this year’s Copa America, losing to Paraguay in penal shootouts (0-2) and then losing to Germany in another International Friendly in August 2011. We’re happy to share this sweet victory with our favorite Brazilians. Wish we had Guaraná Antartica to celebrate…

Guide Through the District of the Lakes

2011-08-31T14:49:00.002+01:00

This past Bank Holiday weekend Keenan and I had to the opportunity to visit one of the most beautiful corners of England – the Lake District. Located in the modern county of Cumbria in Northwest England, the Lake District is a haven for hikers thanks to the fantastic scenery of fells and lakes.

We left Saturday morning from London Euston to Windermere via Lancaster for a weekend of hiking and fresh mountain air. The train ride was a long one (4 hours with several changes) but it was comfortable and definitely more relaxing than flying. We based ourselves in Windermere, a small town a mile uphill from Lake Windermere, and had a lovely stay at the Laurel Cottage. Proprietors Wayne and Alison are excellent hosts and always eager to share their knowledge of the Lake District.

After the rain died down, we made our way to Bowness-on-Windermere, the sister city located on the shore of Lake Windermere. Instead of taking the main road 1.5 mile down to Bowness, Wayne suggested we take the scenic route via Brant Fell to take advantage of views and partially sunny afternoon. A relatively easy hike, Brant Fell affords you with amazing panoramic views of Bowness, Lake Windermere, and the Langdale Pikes in the distance. Scenic, mountainous, and amazingly green, this is exactly how I imagined the Lake District.

View from Brant Fell:

Bowness is a quaint little village lined with numerous teashops and bakeries, mountaineering stores, and little shops selling all things Peter Rabbit as author Beatrix Potter drew inspiration for her famous children’s book from her summer holidays in the Lake District. Bustling Bowness is perfect for a leisurely stroll along the Promenade of picturesque Lake Windermere or a picnic on its numerous open space. You can also visit nearby Victorian estates, many of which are converted to hotels, take afternoon tea, or have lunch at a historic pub. With numerous end-of-season sales, we spent the afternoon hopping between outdoor stores in search for a new men’s rucksack for our upcoming trip to Sri Lanka. Happy with our purchase from the Mountain Warehouse, we were then off to sample local ale at The Albert whilst soaking up the last ray of sunshine before walking back to Windermere.

That Saturday evening, we were caught in the rain and without advanced dinner reservations. We wandered around town looking for a decent place to eat and ended up at Mojo’s Bistro, a modern British restaurant, for a nice meal. We hit the sack early, excited for another day of exploring the Lake District.

The next morning, after a hearty English breakfast, we set out to conquer our next destination: Ambleside via Orrest Head and Wanfell Pike. Armed with Wayne’s trusty directions and map, we were well on our way, first to Orrest Head, which had another amazing viewpoint of the entire 10.5 mile length of Lake Windermere. We made good progress, enjoying the pastoral landscape dotted with countless numbers of white sheep (and an occasional black sheep too!) and snapping some scenic photos until we got off-track and ended up on the main road.

View from Orrest Head:

We got confused somewhere from “climb over the stone wall to the left next to the big tree, then go through the gate and go through field to another gate, then climb over the stone wall where there will be yellow sign, cross the farm and to the rear of the farm, climb over the stone wall.” By that time, we were so lost that none of the directions made sense to us. Not to worry though, we eventually found our way back on the trail once we got to Troutbeck and from here, we made our ascend to Wansfell Pike. Up until this point, we didn’t see a single person on the trail, but here loads of people, young and old, joined us on the path to Ambleside. It was getting windier by the minute, making the hike a bit more challenging. But the view alone from Wansfell Pike was worth the hike – see for yourself.

Ambleside is also a nice village with the same mix of commercial retail shops, but much larger and busier than Windermere. There is even a 70 foot waterfall (Stock Ghyll Force) nearby, but we couldn’t muster enough energy to walk to the waterfalls after our long and steep 8 mile hike. The architecture is primarily Victorian with nice church adjacent to an old cemetry. After meandering around Ambleside for a few hours, we hopped on the bus back to Windermere and rewarded ourselves with a meaty pizza at Giottos.

The next day, with sore thighs and calves, we originally wanted to spend the afternoon kayaking on the lake, but alas, the high winds spoiled our plans. Instead we had a light lunch and afternoon tea in Bowness, which is my favourite of the three towns we visited, and then did one last short hike to Queen Adelaide’s Hill, which was named after King William IV’s widow after a royal visit in 1840, for another scenic viewpoint. Had we plan our day better and checked the forecast beforehead, we would have taken the bus up to Grasmere, then onwards to the Castlerigg Stone Circles, just outside of Keswick. Next time, I hope. Maybe next time, we’ll visit in March and witness “a host of golden daffodils; beside the lake, beneath the trees, fluttering and dancing in the breeze” and “my heart with pleasure fills and dances with the daffodils” like William Wandsworth famously wrote in his poem about the Lake District, “I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud.”

I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o'er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils;
Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

Continuous as the stars that shine
And twinkle on the milky way,
They stretched in never-ending line
Along the margin of a bay:
Ten thousand saw I at a glance,
Tossing their heads in sprightly dance.

The waves beside them danced, but they
Out-did the sparkling leaves in glee;
A poet could not be but gay,
In such a jocund company!
I gazed—and gazed—but little thought
What wealth the show to me had brought:

For oft, when on my couch I lie
In vacant or in pensive mood,
They flash upon that inward eye
Which is the bliss of solitude;
And then my heart with pleasure fills,
And dances with the daffodils.

by William Wandsworth

Richard III: The Old Vic Theatre

2011-08-21T14:00:00.003+01:00

Every once in a while, but not often, you have the opportunity and distinct pleasure of viewing a truly epic performance. Although there are a number of great shows out there which, when the curtains go down, you stand and applaud, there are only a few that receive such an ovation from the audience that it can only be described as a grand masterpiece. Despite having seen a number of very high quality shows since moving to London, I can say with a degree of confidence that on Saturday we witnessed the best of them yet.

Starring Kevin Spacey and directed by Sam Mendes, this class A duo teamed up once again for what will certainly become known as the legendary production of William Shakespeare’s Richard III.

It is no accident that the team responsible for American Beauty would pen such a dark depiction in this famous Machiavellian tale of murderous despotism and twisted manipulation, but it worked so well that it now seems it cannot be done any other way. The costumes were what could be best described as modern formal, but with a slightly medieval undercurrent, blending concepts of time and continuity, but remaining relevant enough to our own modern senses. The set was surprisingly basic, but effective in that it did not distract from the amazing performances of the actors who commanded the stage, serving its purpose for a multiple of settings between the two acts and doing so with the perfectly balanced combination of subtlety and authenticity.

Kevin Spacey may have achieved one of the highest points of his career and was on point as the central performance during the entire evening. Convincingly and unapologetically evil, his portrayal as the conniving and cruel royal was successful in engendering feelings of both humor and disgust simultaneously. Excellent performances from Chuk Iwuji as Buckingham and Hayden Gwynne as Queen Elizabeth rounded out the primary cast of characters, contributing to what will be an exceptional standard for generations of thespians wishing to play these roles. The overall direction was inventive, incorporating the use of modern technology embedded within the story to maximize themes of political duplicity, demonstrating the power that words and images have on the masses in cultivating an image and achieving popular support. Sam Mendes was risky, but truly brilliant in his execution.

Marking the third and final season of the Bridge Project, an enormously successful initiative which brings together British and American actors in classic theatre productions, Richard III is the bar for which future productions of Shakespeare should aspire to. Sitting through a performance of any of the Great Bard’s works is an exercise in patience and attention on the part of the audience. To mesmerize and captivate an audience and to make the 3 hour 15 minute running time pass by within the blink of an eye is the work of true dramatic genius, most deserving of the standing ovations it received.

-K.V.

Weekend Wedding in the Bordeaux Wine Region

2011-08-18T16:25:00.098+01:00

Last weekend Keenan and I attended our second summer wedding of the year, this time in a small village in the Bordeaux wine region. We met this wonderful couple through the groom’s brother Rod after they relocated from Sao Paulo to her native London. The wedding took place at an amazing chateau, which is a special place for the happy couple as not only did the bride spent her childhood summers here, but the couple also got engaged here last summer in front of a group of close friends.

Arriving early on Friday morning, we drove straight from the Bordeaux airport to our B&B in St. Gemme. The drive through the French countryside was simply gorgeous – rolling hills, miles of vineyards, cornfields, sunflowers, and picturesque little villages. Keenan and I, along with a newly-engaged couple friend, settled into the La Cigogne B&B, and then went to check out the farmer’s market in Monsegur based the B&B’s recommendation. The town itself was small with several restaurants on the main square and a medieval church. There’s not much in terms of sightseeing here, however, there are several famous wineries in the region such as Chateau Lavison and Chateau Yquem in Sauterne, home of the famous sweet French wine. Having visited Bordeaux and St. Emilion last May, we were quite content just relaxing and spending time with friends.

Friday evening, the bride and groom hosted a fun casual dinner in the main garden of chateau. We spent the evening under the stars chatting with their family and friends, many whom flew in from Brazil or from different parts of Europe, drinking wine, and drinking more wine, including several nice vintages pulled from the wine cellar.

Saturday was the big day! But before the wedding, we enjoyed some pool time, volleyball, and badminton with the bride and groom back at chateau before the evening ceremony. We also had an impromptu BBQ, lied in hammocks under the trees, and enjoyed the beautiful property.

The wedding ceremony was held in the main garden overlooking the French countryside. It was a beautiful ceremony. The bride looked stunning! With her father escorting her down the aisle, the bride wore a gorgeous strapless mermaid gown with lace appliqué and layers of organza. It was very fitting for the bride and her warm personality and sophisticated style, yet also very feminine. She looked beautiful opting for natural hair and make-up for her big day.

The groom wasn’t so shabby either. He and his groomsmen wore matching grey waistcoats and black suits, while the bridesmaids donned colourful maxi dresses for the joyous occasion. The bride’s father picked up the newlywed couple in his vintage tractor decorated with a sign “Just Married” and whisked the couple away for a photo session on another part of the property.

The champagne and hors d’oeuvres reception was held under the trees, followed by dinner in the main marquee, and dancing in the piano room where the DJ and bartender kept the party going until 3am with music through the decades and delicious watermelon and lycee martinis. Congratulations, and thank you for inviting us to share your special day! Enjoy your sweet honeymoon in the Seychelles!

The next day, slightly hungover and completely exhausted, we went to our friend’s B&B, Chateau Le Bosquet des Fleurs, in Le Reole for their annual wine-tasting open house before our evening flight back to London. It was a wonderful weekend of celebrating the marriage of our friends, drinking Bordeaux wines, hanging out with friends – old and new, and soaking up the sunshine in the French countryside.

The London Riots

2011-08-15T22:13:00.001+01:00

One week has passed since widespread rioting and indiscriminate looting swept through London and to other parts of England. In neighborhoods across London, Manchester, Birmingham, and Liverpool damaged storefronts remain boarded and burnt out buildings in states of disrepair, reminders of the violence and chaos that people inflicted on their own communities for reasons that are still incomprehensible to most of us.

In the days following the riots, important questions are being raised, ranging from the motivations and compulsions of the rioters to the inadequate response and lack of force from the police. The unfortunate truth is that many of these questions will lead to difficult answers, bringing to the surface deeper structural issues that reveal the layered troubles that exist within Britain, as they do in other countries. I would hope that this is an opportunity to finally discuss these issues on a national level in a spirit of honesty and collaboration to seek solutions to a wide array of complex societal, economic, and organizational challenges, which combined together, have brought us to this moment of uncertainty, but which could evolve into a national renewal if confronted productively.
I speak for most Londoners when I say that it was truly disturbing and disappointing to watch a city you love be gripped by fear and sustain so much destruction, both physical and psychological. However, I remind my fellow Londoners that what sets this thriving metropolis apart is its resilience and determination to always rise from the ashes.

London is an ancient city with a dramatic history spanning over 2,000 years. The city has survived invading armies, barbaric rampages, epic battles, devastating plagues, indiscriminate air raids, horrific acts of terror, and plenty of fires and civil unrest which fill volumes upon volumes of history books. It is a city that always endures and comes out better than it was before, adapting and growing in spite of what fate sends its way.

Today Prime Minister David Cameron said that Britain is a “broken society”, placing this at the top of his agenda while in office. I share in his disgust and disappointment at what occurred last week and I agree that it calls for an objective appraisal and immediate action, but I would remind him of the thousands of volunteers across Britain who took to the streets with brooms and shovels to repair those communities which were worst affected. The riots reveal deep rooted problems that must be addressed, but Britain is not unique in this experience. Before the conversation turns towards the negative, I would remind Mr. Cameron that not all of Britain is broken. It is just time to finally repair those segments of British society that are damaged and this is where the real rebuilding process begins.

-KV

P.S. After contributing to London Cosmopolitan for nearly three years, I have created a separate medium in order to discuss some of the most pressing issues of the day and to analyze a bit more deeply the historic, political, and cultural context impacting current events in many of the places we have traveled. I welcome your comments, questions, and feedback at www.travelissubversive.com.

Gastronomic Tour of San Francisco

2011-08-02T23:13:00.039+01:00

When asked what we missed most about San Francisco, our immediate response is generally the following: friends and family, sun and blue skies, and the food. Oh, the food for sure. We miss Mexican, sushi, Vietnamese food, California wines, and the abundance of fresh fruit and veggies, which is second to none in California. In between visiting family in our respective hometowns, we also made it a priority to enjoy the culinary delights of Northern California and planned several day trips and dinner dates with our favourite S.F. based foodie friends.

On a ridiculously gorgeous day in San Francisco, we took a trip up to Tomales Bay with three friends for a picnic and oyster-feast at the Hogs Island Oyster Farm. Located an hour north of San Francisco on Highway 1, we took the scenic route along the windy road passing through the small towns of Stinson Beach, Bolinas, and Point Reyes Station and marveled at the view of the Pacific Ocean.

We reserved a picnic table overlooking Tomales Bay and brought a large picnic spread of fresh veggies for grilling, chicken sausages, salads, beverages, and other snack items. The highlight, of course, was the oysters, which were as fresh as can be since it was just plucked from the estuary that morning. At a bargain price, we ordered 50 small sweet water oysters for $35, which we ate raw with a splash of lemon, and one dozen large sweet water oysters for $15 for BBQing, all washed down with no other than a California sparkling wine. It was a wonderful day of glorious sunshine, great company, and delicious food.

On our way back to San Francisco, we stopped by Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station to pick up some artisan cheeses. We were originally scheduled to take a tour but missed the 3PM appointment as we were having far too much fun at Hog Island. We did manage to continue our eating extravaganza by having our cheese and dessert course outside on the lawn at Cowgirl. Wonderful day out in beautiful Marin County, and thanks to Mona, JC, and Clare for organizing an amazing picnic spread.

We also spent one day up in Napa Valley for some wine-tasting with my college roommate and her husband. The four of us hung out regularly when we were living in Rockridge so we were happy that they were able to spend the day with us. I can’t tell you how much we miss having Napa and Sonoma in our backyards. I turn green with envy when I periodically see Facebook updates of so-and-so sipping wine in Napa/Sonoma/Russian River.

Betty planned the wine-tasting itinerary; the agenda included: Anderson Conn, Robert Sinskey, Cliff Lede, and Joseph Phelps. We enjoyed the personal cave tour and the wines at Anderson Conn, which turned out to be our favourite winery of the day. Joseph Phelps was overrated which was a disappointment since I have heard nothing but great reviews, although the property was stunning. We took a break from wine-tasting and had ourselves a lovely picnic at Cliff Lede. It was hot by the late afternoon and in need of a break from full-bodied cabernet sauvignon, we opted for some sparkling wines at Mumm’s instead as our final tasting of the day.

For dinner, we ate at Michael Chiarello’s Bottega in Yountville, which is considered as one of the Bay Area’s Top 100 Restaurants. The restaurant was tastefully decorated with a nice patio area for alfresco dining. As starters, we ordered the Monterey calamari, Truffle-parmigiano fries, and Pesce Crudo of the Day, all were delicious and portions were generous. For mains, Betty, being the meat lover that she is, ordered the Wood Grilled Chops of Grass-Fed Lamb, which according to her paired brilliantly well with the Cake Bread Syrah, while the rest of us opted for Chiarello’s signature pasta. I thought my Red Wheat Linguine Bolognese was excellent, however Keenan thought the spaghetti of his seafood pasta was far too thick for his liking as it overwhelmed the delicate flavours of the sauce, and David ordered vegetarian friendly Heirloom Tomato Pasta. To round out dinner, we shared the Zeppole al Lemoni (Italian donuts cooked to order) served with Meyer lemon curd and berry Earl Grey sauce.

Ummmm…mouthwatering. We couldn’t ask for a more perfect day in Napa with great friends, great wine, great food, and perfect weather!

Continuing our culinary tour, we also hit up some of our several of our favourite places, including the hole-in-the-wall Pho Saigon for huge bowls of piping hot Vietnamese pho on Stockton Blvd; our favourite sushi restaurant in Sacramento, Mikuni’s, where my family and I have been going for the past 14 years; the quintessential Californian In-N-Out Burger; and the Berkeley institution, the Cheeseboard. We even got our Mexican fix (x3) at El Castillo in Tracy, Nick’s Crispy Tacos, and Tlaloc in San Francisco for oversized burritos and bottomless tortilla chips. Keenan is a happy camper.

We spent a lot of time at the Ferry Building, one of my favourite places in San Francisco, enjoying our beloved Peet’s Coffee, browsing through the Sur La Table store, and dining alfresco at Market Bar with Keenan’s former co-worker and friend, who now works at the Ferry Building. We tried two new restaurants in San Francisco: Little Star Chicago-style Pizza with our Chicagoan-turned San Franciscan friends who are expecting their first child in December (congrats!), and Prospect in SOMA with another couple friend, Brent and Lena. I didn’t think anything can rival Zachary’s Pizza, but Little Star Diversadero came pretty darn close. Even our Chicagoan friends concurred.

Sister restaurant of Boulevard, Chef Ravi Kapur opened Prospect last summer in the Infinity Tower in SOMA. His menu is highly focused on seasonal Californian ingredients. The mains ranged anywhere from $25 to $36 per plate and the wine list was even steeper. The group shared the halibut tartare and grilled octopus as starters, both highly recommended. Missing a good quality steak in London, Keenan and I both ordered the ribeye, which was nicely marbled for full flavour, while our friends had the goat roast and roasted quail.

Dessert was a treat! The pastry cook at Prospect was a former colleague of my friend Brent during their PwC days and she sent out a dazzling array of desserts for us to devour, including her own creation, the Griddled Peach Crepe with sweet corn ice cream, which was inspired by her mid-western roots; Ice Cream Sandwiches; and the Prospect Sundaes. As usual with our friends, we were the last to leave the restaurant at 12:30 am, a sign that it was a fabulous meal!

So overall, how was our trip back to San Francisco? Two words: incredible and delicious!

San Francisco: The City by the Bay

2011-07-28T18:23:00.058+01:00

It is hard to believe that it has been well over two years since our last trip home to San Francisco. Amazing how fast time flies! The anticipation of flying back to our native California has been building up since last summer when our friends announced their engagement to wed in North Lake Tahoe. Keenan and I were beyond excited to reunite with family and friends as our plane descended over the gorgeous Mendocino Coast, a little reminder of just how lucky we are to call one of the most beautiful regions in the world “home.”

Having been away for so long, naturally we had a jam-packed agenda for our 12-day trip back to the City by the Bay, bouncing around like ping pong balls all over Northern California to see family and friends. We also enjoyed some culinary delights in San Francisco, Napa, and Tomales Bay, which will be a subject of another post. For now, I will share highlights from our trip back to sunny California.

Family Time: We spent majority of our first weekend visiting family, arriving in time to meet our newest and fourth nephew born on 15th July 2011. Baby Chase was welcomed with love by his three older brothers, proud parents, "pop pop," Uncle Keenan and Auntie Lily. Chase is as sweet as can be. In addition to spending two days in Sacramento with my parents, where my Dad cooked up a fantastic Chinese meal, we also had a family lunch with Keenan’s extended family in Fremont. It is crazy how fast the kids grow – all the boys are shooting up like a beanstalk! The extended family is getting bigger and bigger -- Keenan's cousin is also expecting in August with her second son. 11 boys in this generation and not a single girl yet!

Friends: We are truly blessed with so many amazing friends in the Bay Area, some we have known since we were in diapers. It was great hanging out just like old times. We finally got to meet our friend’s 1 year old son, Ben, at a dinner party at his Godmother’s place and reunited with my graduate school friends at a birthday party. Special thanks to Shali for hosting us at her adorable Nob Hill apartment during our time in San Francisco. I loved waking up to the sound of the cable car! We also scheduled several larger social events, including a fun Thursday happy hour at Sens overlooking the Justin Herman Plaza and the Ferry Building. It was great to see everyone!

Classic SF Giants vs. LA Dodger Game: Growing in Northern California, you were taught to despise Los Angeles. Period. Upon learning that the classic divisional game coincided with our California trip, I planned a big group outing with 25 friends at AT&T Park, which I consider as one of the most scenic ballparks in the country. After drinks at nearby 21st Amendment, we made our way to our seats in the View Box, which as the name implies, had an amazing view of the Bay Bridge, and we enjoyed the company of wonderful friends, delicious garlic fries, and a great game of baseball. And the weather was absolutely perfect for an evening baseball game. The Giants sealed a close game at 5-3 with Brian Wilson as the relief pitcher. Go Giants -- here's to another Championship this year!

D&L’s Wedding in North Lake Tahoe: The highlight was our trip was attending the wedding of dear friends Dave and Leah in Incline Village. They had a beautiful evening ceremony on the Aspen Grove, followed by a reception at the Chateau. The bride and groom looked incredibly happy, dancing the night away and chatting with their guest. I am sure they are enjoying their sweet honeymoon in Maui. Mazel Tov!

Our friends rented out a cabin for the wedding, so we spent the weekend playing tennis in the courtyard, lounging by the pool, and catching up on the past two years. On our way back to San Francisco, we stopped by Kings Beach for a little Taco Ball fix and snapped this beautiful photo of Lake Tahoe with the golden sand, pristine water, and snow-capped mountains.

Beautiful California...almost makes us want to move back…almost. Thank you all for making the time to hang out with us! We certainly hope it won’t be another two years before we return to the City by the Bay. Stay tuned for highlights of our culinary tour!

Robin Hood and His Merry Men: Stag Weekend in Nottingham

2011-07-13T22:13:00.000+01:00

The Great British Stag Party, a time honored and cherished pre-wedding tradition to celebrate what we in the US would refer to as the bachelor party. After having witnessed dozens of these all over the UK for a few years now, along with the bridal equivalent, the “Hen Party”, I have finally had the opportunity to participate in one for myself.

Over the weekend we celebrated my friend’s upcoming August nuptials by heading up north to Nottingham; yes, the home of the Sheriff and the town made famous for Sherwood Forest, Robin Hood, and of course his Merry Men.

To pay homage to the legacy made famous here, and in keeping up with the British tradition of “fancy dress”, or as Americans would say, “dressing up in costume”, we donned the uniforms of Robin Hood and His Merry Men and hit the town.

What amazes me most about these fancy dress “dos” (a “do” is an event or a celebration) is how popular and widespread they are. Instead of standing out, looking odd or misplaced, you find that there are so many other groups doing the exact same thing and it soon becomes a competition to see which group gets more attention and better reactions. It certainly makes the night more interesting and it’s disappointing that we limit ourselves to just one night a year during Halloween in the US.

Nottingham itself is small, with limited options during the day to keep you busy. Aside from the oldest pub in England, “Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem”, which was established in 1189 as an inn and public house for crusaders on their way to war, and the old castle just adjacent to it, established by William the Conqueror in 1068, there is not much else see. Wollaton Park is just outside the main city centre and its grand estate, Wollaton Hall, has been the site of a lot of films including Christopher Nolan’s Batman trilogy, doubling as Wayne Manor. We were also lucky enough to spot the Olympic Torch as it was on tour in Nottingham's main square while we were there.

The nightlife is unsurprisingly not bad, but not great or up to par with the options in London. However, it is ranked as one of the most popular spots in the UK for Stag and Hen parties. There were certainly plenty of them out and about over the entire weekend. Perhaps not worth a day trip from London from a sightseeing perspective, but Nottingham is definitely a great weekend get away with the guys and probably exactly what you want from a Stag Weekend. -- KV

Weezer @ the Brixton Academy

2011-07-07T12:34:00.003+01:00

We went to a Weezer concert last night at the Brixton Academy with two friends. Twelve hours later, my ears are still partially impaired, heart still pumping with adrenaline, and mind flooded with nostalgia of memories from our carefree University days at Berkeley and Davis. The Brixton Academy is quite nice; an intimate rock venue holding no more than 5,000 spectators (standing room) in the vibrant Caribbean neighbourhood of Brixton in South London.

Rough around the edges, Brixton does have some hidden gems such as the beloved Franca Manca Pizzeria and Rosie’s Deli Café in the bustling Market Row; Ritzy Cinema; and of course, the Brixton Academy. Heavyweight champion David Haye, who recently got dethrone of his WBA World Heavyweight title, lives in Brixton and often spotted walking his Chihuahuas on Clapham Common. Brixton High Street is peppered with a mix of cheap eateries (McDonalds, Speedy Noodles), high street retailers (Boots, M&S, TopShop, H&M), and several eye-sore pawn shops. By day, hordes of people, mostly from Afro-Caribbean backgrounds, including ladies wearing colourful hip-hugging outfits, go about their day shopping for fresh produce and meats at the local markets. By night, Brixton can be somewhat dodgy. It’s fine to walk the streets of Brixton at night as long as you keep your wits about you.

As for the Weezer concert, it was a lot of fun. We invited two friends, Rod and Si, to the concert as a thank you gift, but it turned out that this was also our “see you soon” gift as they are heading back to Sao Paolo, Brazil on one-year stint at the end of July. We missed the supporting act by London-based punk rock group Male Bonding in favour for a light dinner at a nearby café. By the time we arrived, the 1920s Art Deco building was heaving with twentysomething concert-goers who, like myself, listened toWeezer, Oasis, Dave Matthews Band, Green Day during our college days (ahhhh, nostalgia). By far, this is one of the better venue I’ve been to for a concert as I can actually see the stage due to the slight downward incline in the standing area, which allowed for a good sightline of the main stage. For the next 90 minutes, Weezer, donning their signature squared thick-rimmed glasses and “cool nerd” outfits, played a lively set list of all my favourite Weezer songs. Now if I can only run away and find an island in the sun to escape this terrible English summer…

Weezer, 6th July 2011 Setlist:

1. Undone – The Sweater Song

2. My Name Is Jonas

3. El Scorcho

4. Holiday

5. Pink Triangle

6. Susanne

7. Island in the Sun

8. Teenage Dirtbag (Wheatus cover)

9. The Good Life

10. The World Has Turned and Left me Here

11. Say it Ain't So

12. Tired of Sex

13. You Gave Your Love to Me Softly

14. Pork and Beans

15. Across the Sea

16. The Greatest Man That Ever Lived

17. Only in Dreams

18. Paranoid Android (Radiohead Cover)

Encore:

19. Hash Pipe

20. Buddy Holly